DIY Cosmetica

Creamy Shampoo for Dry Hair

PhaseIngredientPercent (%)Weight (g)
Phase AGlycerin510
Xanthan gum1.22.4
Distilled water4284
Panthenol (vitamin B5)12
Phase BBTMS5036
Broccoli seed oil1122
Myrica wax0.51
Castor oil1.32.6
Phase CDecyl glucoside1020
Coco glucoside1020
Coco betaine816
Phase DHydrolyzed wheat protein24
Horsetail extract12
Sodium PCA24
Preservative (cosgard)12
Fragrance oil (I have used strawberry vanilla)12
Total weight (g)

*** Citric acid solution to lower the PH. To learn more about PH adjustments in cosmetics please check this post.

*** Use xanthan gum compatible with cationic ingredients such as BTMS (or swap for Guar Gum).

In a previous post, I shared a recipe for cleansing shampo.

In this post, we will make creamy shampoo for dry hair. During the summer, most of us prefer more conditioning hair products than cleansing ones. If your hair is dry and sun-damaged, you will enjoy this type of shampoo.

Please read this post here to learn more about hair types.

If you prefer a solid version for your hair products, I have shared many solid shampoos and solid conditioner recipes. You can find them under the 'hair' category.


So, let's go over some of the ingredients that make this shampoo conditioning and nourishing for dry hair.

This recipe is made of 4 phases.

The first phase is the water phase. In the water phase, we have glycerin as a humectant (it can pull in moisture from the air, keeping the hair hydrated) and panthenol (vitamin B5) which helps smooth the hair and retain moisture.

The second phase is the oil phase. In the oil phase, we have BTMS50, which is our emulsifier. BTMS50 is also our conditioning agent. It's a cationic (positively charged) surfactant that helps to detangle the hair and keep it smooth and soft.

Broccoli seed oil helps give shine to the hair. It penetrates the hair, helps moisturize it and does not leave the hair greasy.

Myrica wax also helps smooth the hair and makes it easier to brush.

The next phase is phase C which contains the surfactants. We have a combination of 3 mild and gentle surfactants that will clean the hair gently.

The last phase is the cool-down phase (we add it at the end. After checking that the temperature is less than 40 degrees Celsius).

In this phase, we add the extract and actives that will give these extra nourishing properties to this shampoo.

I have chosen Hydrolyzed wheat protein (which can pass through the hair cuticle and hydrate the hair shaft), horsetail extract (beneficial for stimulating hair growth and adding shine to the hair) and Sodium PCA (which helps smoothen the hair).

Please scroll down to the 'notes' section if you want to check alternatives.

This recipe is for 200g. You can use the calculator to make a larger amount.


  1. In a heat-resistant beaker, add phase A ingredients. Start with the glycerin, add the xanthan gum and mix them to make a slurry.




  1. Add the distilled water and the panthenol and set the container aside.



  1. In a different heat-resistant container, add phase B ingredients. Start with adding the btms50 and the wax. Now add the broccoli seed oil and the castor oil. Set aside.





  1. In a different heat-resistant container, add phase C ingredients.




  1. Prepare in a different container phase D. set aside.






  1. Place phases A, B and C into a double boiler on medium heat. Cover phase A to prevent water evaporation.



  1. After phase B is completely melted, combine phase B with A. Use an immersion blender to ensure the phases are combined.




  1. Add phase c and blend to combine.



  1. Let the mixture cool down, check the temperature and add phase D when the temperature is less than 40 degrees Celsius.



  1. Check the PH and adjust if necessary. PH level should be around 5-5.5. I have used some citric acid solution to lower the PH to 5.5. To read more about PH adjustments, please check this post here.



  1. If you are patient, leave the product for 6-8 hours to rest, and all the foams will come down. If you are in a hurry, place the product into a container, and voilà, it's ready to use.



  1. If you don't have panthenol, you can add allantoin instead. You will need to adjust the recipe. If you make 200g, use 1g allantoin and 85g distilled water.

  2. You can replace the BTMS50 with BTMS25 or with Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI Name: Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) or Emulsense HC (INCI Name: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol) in case you choose Emulsense™ HC, you will probably need to raise the PH, and it is only compatible with arginine for adjusting the pH. Check this post on how to adjust PH.

  3. Broccoli seed oil is excellent for hair products. If you don't have it, you can replace it with fractionated coconut oil or jojoba oil.

  4. you can swap the myrica wax with berry wax or cetyl alcohol or even shea butter or coconut oil.

  5. If you want to swap the castor oil, you can use any carrier oil you like for your hair. You can use jojoba oil or sunflower oil.

  6. You can replace the decyl glucoside with coco glucoside. You can replace the coco glucoside with decyl glucoside.

So you can use just one of them and combine it with coco betaine or with cocamidopropyl betaine.

  1. For phase D, if you want to use different extracts or actives, you can use any extract or active that you have that is beneficial for hair.

Some examples are quinoa protein, rice protein, vegetable inulin, aloe vera extract or nettle extract. You can still make this shampoo if you don't have any extracts. Just skip the 10g extracts (in case you are making the 200g) and add 5g glycerin and 5g distilled water in phase A to replace the 10g extracts amount.

Related articles: