DIY Cosmetica

Shea Butter Deep Conditioning Hair Mask

PhaseIngredientPercent (%)Weight (g)
Phase ADistilled water5959
Phase BShea butter infused with horsetail1414
Cetyl alcohol44
Coconut oil55
TEGO® Amid S18 (INCI - Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine)33
Olivem1000 (INCI - Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate)55
Phase CPanthenol11
Lactic acid solution 80%2.52.5
Phase DFragrance oil1.21.2
Preservative Cosgard (INCI - Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Aqua)0.80.8
Total weight (g)

In the previous post, I shared the process of making infused shea butter with horsetail. In this formula, I use the infused shea butter in a high percentage to achieve a very nourishing hair mask. You can make the infused shea butter the day before you make this hair mask.


Shea butter is highly moisturizing, making it a go-to solution for thirsty hair. It has the remarkable ability to infuse dry and brittle hair with the vital hydration it craves. Shea butter locks in moisture when applied, creating a protective barrier that prevents further moisture loss. This leaves your hair feeling noticeably softer and significantly more manageable.

Shea butter contains fatty acids. These fatty acids are like a remedy for your hair's flexibility, working to restore its natural bounce and resilience. As a result, your hair becomes more resistant to breakage and split ends.

Shea butter also possesses soothing properties. When applied as a hair mask, it can help control unruly frizz and pesky flyaways.


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Making the mask is similar to making a cream or a lotion; you can read more about the basics of making creams in this post here.

In this hair mask formula, I also use coconut oil.

Coconut oil is also rich in fatty acids that penetrate the hair shaft and provide deep hydration. It helps to moisturize dry and damaged hair, leaving it softer.

Coconut oil can add a natural shine to the hair and helps shield the hair from the harmful effects of UV rays and excessive heat.

Along with the shea butter and the coconut oil, I used TEGO® Amid S18. TEGO® Amid S18 is a conditioning agent; it aids in detangling the hair and controls static electricity in the hair, reducing frizz.

To create a stable emulsion withTEGO® Amid S18 we need to ensure the emulsion has 4-4.5 pH. You can add the lactic acid with the panthenol to the water phase before the oil phase or add the lactic acid (with panthenol) right after mixing the oil phase with the water phase. This will ensure the mixture has the right pH level for the TEGO® Amid S18.


In the formula, I used 2.5% lactic acid 80% solution. Sometimes, I had to add a few more drops of lactic acid solution to lower the pH (It depends on the ingredients I use; the same ingredients from different suppliers can have a slightly different pH.) Once I combine phases A, B and C I check and adjust the pH so the emulsion will stay stable.

The pH level is essential to ensure the stability of the final product. If you have never worked with TEGO® Amid S18 before, you might want to experiment with this ingredient a few times before making this hair mask.

If you can't get TEGO® Amid S18, you can replace it with the Olivem1000, so the total of Olivem1000 will be 8%.


For my emulsifier, I use Olivem1000. Olivem1000 has moisturizing properties, making it an excellent emulsifier for hair products.

You can replace the Olivem1000 with Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate or Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20.

For more silkiness, I added Cetyl alcohol (a fatty alcohol). Cetyl alcohol is an emollient and has excellent moisturizing properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the hair and achieve a silky texture for the final product.

In the water phase (phase A), I added allantoin. Allantoin has soothing properties and is known for its ability to attract and retain moisture. Allantoin can also help control frizz. Allantoin should be dissolved in the heated water phase to avoid shards.

If you don't have allantoin, skip it and add 0.5% to the glycerin.


The final product is thick in consistency and very moisturizing. I use this mask on the ends of the hair, leaving it for 5 minutes and rinsing it off with water.

I didn't add any mica or liquid colorant to this hair mask; I left the natural light green color the mask gets from the infused shea butter.

If you wish to add color you can add any cosmetic color you like and mix it well to combine in the emulsion.


  1. In a heat-resistant beaker, add the water phase ingredients. Start with the distilled water, then add the allantoin. Cover the water phase beaker with aluminum foil to minimize water evaporation (when working with bigger batches, you should scale your water phase before heating and after removing it from the heat. Calculate the water evaporated during the heating and add the missing amount to the water phase beaker).





  1. In another heat-resistant beaker, add the oil phase ingredients. Add the Olivem1000, the TEGO® Amid S18, the cetyl alcohol, the infused shea butter and the coconut oil.








  1. Place the oil and water phases into a double boiler on medium heat to melt the oil phase.


  1. Prepare phase C in a different container, mix to dissolve the powder, and set it aside.




  1. Prepare phase D in a different container.



  1. Remove from the heating when phase B is completely melted (about 20 minutes of heating).




  1. Right after mixing the oil phase with the water phase, add phase C (with the lactic acid) and mix to combine. Aim for a pH level of 4-4.5 to ensure a stable emulsion with TEGO® Amid S18. Adjust the pH level by adding some drops of lactic acid 80% until the pH level is 4-4.5. More about pH adjustments here. You can use an immersion blender to create a smooth and homogenous mixture.





  1. Add phase D and mix well to combine when the emulsion cools to less than 40 degrees Celsius. If you want to add color, add it here and mix to incorporate the color to the emulsion.




  1. Pour into the container of choice. Final consistency will form after a few hours.







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