Chamomile Cleansing Balm

In a previous post, I wrote a guide on how to make chamomile oil and chamomile extract in this cleansing balm I used the chamomile oil and the chamomile extract.

If you want to check out another cleansing balm inspired by "Take the Day Off" by Clinique, check it out here. If you prefer a Bi-phase make-up remover, check this formula.

A cleansing balm is a type of facial cleanser designed to dissolve and remove makeup, dirt, and impurities from the skin. Unlike water-based cleansers, which can sometimes struggle to break down heavy or waterproof makeup, cleansing balms are formulated with oils and emulsifiers that effectively break down and lift away stubborn makeup and debris. This makes them particularly effective for a thorough cleanse.

Cleansing balms work through the principle of oil-based cleansing. Oils are effective at dissolving other oils, including those found in makeup and sunscreen. When applied to the skin, the balm melts into an oil, which binds to the makeup and impurities. Massaging the balm into the skin helps break down these substances, allowing them to be easily wiped away. Once rinsed with water, the balm emulsifies and is removed from the skin, leaving it clean and refreshed.

Benefits of Cleansing Balms

1. Effective Makeup Removal: Cleansing balms are highly effective at removing all types of makeup, including waterproof products, which can be challenging for water-based cleansers.
2. Nourishing: Many cleansing balms contain nourishing oils and extracts that can leave the skin feeling soft and hydrated rather than stripped and dry.
3. Gentle: They are typically less irritating to the skin than water-based cleansers, making them suitable for sensitive skin types.
4. Hydrating: The oil-based nature of cleansing balms helps to maintain the skin’s moisture balance, unlike some water-based cleansers that can be drying.

Let's go over the ingredients in this cleansing balm, and next, in the end, you'll find alternatives to the ingredients I used.

The primary ingredient, chamomile oil, provides significant calming and anti-inflammatory effects, making the balm perfect for sensitive and irritated skin. Chamomile oil helps to reduce redness and soothe discomfort, ensuring a gentle cleansing experience. It also has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from environmental damage, helping to keep it youthful and healthy.

Babassu oil, another key ingredient, contributes to the balm's hydrating and emollient properties. Derived from the seeds of the babassu palm, this oil is rich in fatty acids, which deeply moisturize the skin and restore its natural barrier. Babassu oil is known for its ability to provide lightweight yet effective hydration, leaving the skin soft and supple without feeling greasy.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate acts as an emulsifier, helping to blend the oil and wax components into a smooth, stable balm. This emulsifier ensures that the balm maintains its consistency and effectiveness while also making it easy to apply and remove.

Lecithin, another emulsifying agent, further supports the balm's texture and enhances its moisturizing capabilities by improving the skin's ability to retain hydration.

Rice Bran Wax provides a natural thickening agent that helps to solidify the balm and create a rich, creamy texture. This wax contributes to the balm's structural integrity and offers additional emollient properties, further moisturizing and protecting the skin.

In Phase B, Propylene Glycol and Glycerin work together to boost hydration. Propylene Glycol enhances the balm's ability to retain moisture, while Glycerin draws water into the skin, ensuring that it remains hydrated and plump. Chamomile extract adds to the balm's soothing benefits, complementing the chamomile oil with its calming properties.

Decyl Glucoside is a mild surfactant that gently cleanses the skin without stripping away its natural oils. This ingredient ensures that the balm effectively removes dirt, makeup, and impurities while preserving the skin's natural moisture balance.

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, a skin-conditioning agent, enhances the balm's cleansing power and leaves the skin feeling smooth and refreshed.

Bisabolol provides additional anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits, while Lactic Acid helps to gently exfoliate and brighten the skin by promoting cell turnover and regulating the pH of the balm.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E) acts as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from free radicals and enhancing the overall efficacy of the balm.

Alternatives to the ingredients:

• You can replace the Rice Bran wax with Sunflower wax. You can read about waxes in cosmetics here. (-

• You can replace the Babassu Oil with Coconut oil.

• You can use Olivem 900 (INCI: Sorbitan Olivate) or Neocare P3R (INCI:Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (>90%), Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (<10%. as a replacement for Glyceryl Stearate Citrate emulsifier.

• You can use Polysorbate 80 to replace the Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate.

• You can replace Bisabolol with chamomile glycerin extract. (total of 2.4% chamomile extract).

• If you use a different preservative, make sure to use the recommended percentage provided by the supplier. If you need to use 1% preservative, subtract the difference of 0.2% from the chamomile oil.

Method:

1. In a heat resistant beaker, add phase A ingredients.

2. Place phase A into a double boiler for 15-20 minutes on medium heat.

3. In another container, add phase B ingredients. Set aside.

4. Remove phase A from the heat and let it cool down to less than 40°C (room temperature).

5. Add phase B and mix to combine.

6. Pour into a jar or an aluminum tin container and let the cleansing balm cool down.

You can check the pH after the balm solidified, final pH should be 6-6.5. More on pH in cosmetics here.

To use the cleansing balm make sure your hands and face are dry before applying the balm, Use a spatula or clean fingers to scoop out a small amount of cleansing balm. About a pea-sized amount is usually sufficient for the entire face.Gently massage the balm onto your dry face using circular motions. wet your hands with lukewarm water and continue to massage your face. The balm will emulsify, turning into a milky texture that helps to lift away impurities and makeup.Gently pat your face dry with a clean towel.

Related articles:

• Waxes in Cosmetics

• How to Make a Basic Lotion / Cream

• Blueberry Glycerin Extract

• Infusing Oils (no heating)

• How to Adjust the PH Level in Cosmetics