Hair Types and Needs
The scalp's ph is very similar to the skin on the rest of our body – it is around 4.5 – 5.5. The hair's ph is slightly more acidic. Since hair's ph is more acidic, hair care products with a ph between 3.5 and 5.5 are best suited for the hair.
Alkaline hair care products with a ph higher than 7 may increase the negative electrical charge of the hair cuticles, causing frizz and making it hard to smooth down the cuticle. Regular soap has a ph higher than 7, usually between 9 to 10 ph, so regular soap is not recommended as a hair cleanser. Some people use regular soap, and after washing their hair with soap, they rinse the hair with vinegar to balance the ph.
In cosmetics, shampoos are formulated to have more acidic ph levels, so they are much more mild and gentle on the hair than soap.
There are roughly 12 hair types divided into four main groups: straight hair, wavy hair, curly hair, and coily hair.
Straight Hair Type 1
Straight hair is harder to style because it's easy for the sebum (the natural scalp oil) to travel from the scalp to the hair shaft.
This hair type gets greasy very fast. This hair type would probably benefit from a more cleansing shampoo than moisturizing ones. There are sub types to straight hair.
Straight Hair Type 1A
Type 1A hair usually does not have any volume and looks thin.
Straight Hair Type 1B
This hair type has more volume to it. It is not entirely flat and has minor waves to it.
Straight Hair Type 1C
This hair type is not wavy but has more bends than other straight hair types. This hair type will get more frizziness than the other straight hair types. This hair type will benefit more moisturizing products that help control the frizz.
Wavy Hair Type 2
Type 2 hair is moisturized since the natural oil from the scalp can still travel down the hair strand. It is easy to style this hair type. It can be straightened easily or styled into curls. This hair type will benefit from leave-on products, which will give it more volume and control the frizz. There are sub types to wavy hair.
Wavy Hair Type 2A
This hair type has light waves. It can also be styled straight or curly easily. This hair type will benefit from leave-on products, moisturizing shampoos, and conditioners.
Wavy Hair Type 2B
This hair type is not quite curly, and it's not quite straight. It is mostly flat close to the roots and gets wavier toward the bottom of the hair .This hair type will benefit from light styling products, nothing too heavy.
Wavy Hair Type 2C
This hair type has more defined waves. This hair type tends to frizz more often than the previous hat types. This hair type will need more styling and moisturizing products, such as hair masks and leave-in conditioners.
Curly Hair Type 3
This hair type is usually drier. The natural oil from the scalp cannot travel easily to the hair shaft. This hair type does not require an often cleanse. This hair type will enjoy anti-static products, leave-in conditioners, and moisturizing shampoos. There are sub types to curly hair.
Curly Hair Type 3A
This hair type has wide curls. It is relatively easy to style this hair type. People with this hair type tend to use leave-in styling products to define the curls.
Curly Hair Type 3B
This hair type has fewer wide curls. It is harder to straighten. This hair type will benefit from conditioning products. For this hair type, it is recommended to use very moisturizing shampoos.
Curly Hair Type 3C
This hair type has thick curls that look like corkscrews. This hair type tends to frizz fast. People with this hair type usually use many styling products and oils to nourish the hair and help it stay moisturized.
Coily Hair Type 4
This hair type usually has a zig-zag pattern. This hair type needs less frequent washes since there is less grease build-up. It is much drier than wavy or curly hair. There are sub types to coily hair.
Coily Hair Type 4A
This hair type seems much shorter than it is. This hair type will benefit from moisturizing products that nourish it.
Coily Hair Type 4B
This hair type tends to frizz easily. The coils form a “Z” shape which looks like a zigzag with sharp angles. This hair type gets dry very fast therefore will benefit from highly moisturizing hair products.
Coily Hair Type 4C
This hair type has a very defined "Z" shaped pattern. This hair type looks 75% shorter than its actual length. This hair type is the most coily.
When you know your hair type, it is easier to know which hair care products your hair needs. The more straight your hair, the less it needs leave-in products that accumulate and make it even more greasy. The best is to cleanse your hair 1-2 times a week with a cleansing shampoo that has fewer emollients in them.
The curlier your hair is, you will want to choose more nourishing products that give the extra moisture your hair needs. For coily hair, there is less need for frequent cleansing. Coily hair will benefit from deep conditioning hair masks and oils that will moisturize it.
You can always change a shampoo recipe to your needs. Reduce some of the surfactants and add more butter, reduce the oils and butter and add more surfactants to have a more clarifying shampoo.
You can change the percentages of oils and cationic surfactants in hair conditioners and masks to adjust the recipe to your hair needs.
Another thing to consider is that even straight or wavy hair can be dry (after hair treatments or excessive sun exposure). In this case, even straight or wavy hair will benefit from deep moisturizing products.
Also, remember always to check the ph of the final product and adjust it to be suitable hair ph.