Avocado Hair Mask
Ingredients:
Phase A
- Distilled water 57g
- Panthenol powder 1g
- Glycerin 3g
- Naturale betaine 3g
- Magnesium sulfate 1g
Phase B
- BTMS 50 12g
- Cetyl alcohol 4g
- Coco caprylate 3g
- Avocado butter 7g
- Avocado oil 6g
Phase C
- Vitamine E 1g
- Preservative 1g
- Essential oil 1g
- Lactic acid 80 to adjust the PH level. For the hair mask, the recommended PH level is lower than 6. Between 4 and 5.5 will be ideal. The PH should be adjusted according to the preservative used. Start by checking the PH, and if an adjustment is needed, add only 3-4 drops of lactic acid, then measure the PH again. If needed, repeat this process until you reach the desired PH level.
Method:
- Weigh all the ingredients from phase A and place them in a heat-resistant beaker or bowl.
- Weigh all ingredients of phase B and place them in a heat-resistant beaker. Cover the beaker with aluminum foil to prevent water evaporation. (if you want, you can measure the beaker of phase B before heating, then measure it again after heating. If some water evaporated, you could add some water to reach the same weight it was preheating).
- In a different container, weigh phase C ingredients.
- Put phases A and B in a water bath and heat on a small-medium heat until phase A fully melts.
- Take out beakers A and B from the water bath. Pour phase B into phase A and mix to combine. If you are not using an immersion blender, mixing will take some time. You can mix it a little, leave it to cool down, and come back every 2-3 minutes to mix again.
- Once the mixture is cooled under 40 degrees celsius and has a creamy texture, add phase C and mix again.
Check the PH level. If you need to adjust, add some drops of lactic acid solution.
Pour into a container, your mask is ready to use. Shelf life is three months.
The ingredients used in this hair mask:
BTMS 50 (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol and Behentrimonium Methosulfate) is a plant-based cationic conditioning agent as well as an emulsifier. There are alternatives to BTMS, such as Emulsense HC (INCI: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate and Brassica Alcohol), are plant-based cationic surfactant. I usually prefer to use BTMS since Emulsense HC has a low PH level. Another vegetable-based alternative is PLANTAQUAT® NC, a blend of Cetearyl Alcohol, lecithin, and sodium cetearyl sulfate.
Cetyl alcohol is an emulsifier and an emollient that helps us reach a soft creamy texture to the product.
Coco caprylate is made of coconut, and it is considered a vegetable alternative to mineral oils or silicone.
Avocado butter (INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil and Tocopherol) is highly recommended for dry hair. It nourishes the hair and has moisture-sealing properties.
Avocado oil (INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil) can help with sealing the hair cuticles and detangling.
Panthenol powder (pro-vitamin B5) helps with moisturizing and conditioning. It is very easy to add to the water phase.
Glycerin is a humectant that draws moisture to the hair.
Natural betaine (INCI: Betaine (Trimethylglycin) has anti-static properties and helps condition the hair.
Magnesium sulfate helps to stabilize the emulsion and conditioning the hair.
Vitamin E is an antioxidant and helps to reduce free radical damage.
For fragrance, I choose cherry blossom essential oil. It leaves a very nice smell on the hair and is known for its antioxidant properties.
For my preservative I choose cosgard (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Aqua), which has a PH range between 2 to 7.