Reference
Ingredient Encyclopedia
637 ingredients explained in plain English — what they do, how to use them, what to substitute, and the recipes that use them.
Acid (1)
Active (96)
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Stable, oil-friendly vitamin C derivative. Brightens, evens tone, and converts to active C in the skin. 4-Butylresorcinol A potent skin-brightener and tyrosinase inhibitor. Sometimes called the strongest cosmetic-grade alternative to hydroquinone. Allantoin A soothing, skin-conditioning ingredient that calms irritation, supports cell turnover, and is naturally derived from plants like comfrey and chamomile. Alpha Arbutin Gentle, stable brightening active. Inhibits melanin without the irritation of hydroquinone. Ascorbyl Glucoside A stable vitamin C derivative (sugar + ascorbic acid). Brightens and supports collagen at a gentler pH than pure ascorbic acid. Ascorbyl Palmitate An older oil-soluble vitamin C ester. Inexpensive and stable in oils — but limited skin conversion and less effective than newer forms. Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate An oil-soluble vitamin C ester that penetrates deeply into the skin. The most luxurious vitamin C derivative. Astaxanthin Vivid red carotenoid antioxidant from microalgae. One of the strongest known free radical scavengers. Azelaic Acid Naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid. Multi-tasking active for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. Bakuchiol A plant-derived alternative to retinol. Gentle, stable, and pregnancy-friendly. NOT a true retinoid. Beta-Glucan Polysaccharide from oats, yeast, or fungi. Soothes, hydrates, and supports skin barrier and immune response. Bisabolol Soothing terpene alcohol from chamomile (or made synthetically). Calms redness and supports active delivery. Bromelain Proteolytic enzyme from pineapple. Sister enzyme to papain. Gentle exfoliation and anti-inflammatory bonus. Caffeine A water-soluble stimulant that reduces puffiness, increases microcirculation, and gives a temporary tightening effect. Calcium Ascorbate A calcium salt of ascorbic acid. Buffered, gentle, and slightly more stable than sodium ascorbate, but still oxidation-prone. Centella Titrated Extract Standardized centella asiatica with measured asiaticoside content. The therapeutic-grade form for scar and barrier work. Ceramide AP An alpha-hydroxylated ceramide important for barrier organization. Complements Ceramide NP and EOP in a full barrier blend. Ceramide Complex Lipid molecules that mimic the skin's own barrier. The gold standard for repairing compromised skin. Ceramide EOP A long-chain ceramide with an attached fatty acid. Acts as a 'rivet' that holds adjacent barrier lipid layers together. Ceramide NP The most abundant ceramide in human skin. Restores the barrier and reduces water loss in dry and compromised skin. Cholesterol A natural skin lipid that pairs with ceramides and fatty acids to rebuild the barrier. The third leg of the barrier-lipid blend. Coenzyme Q10 Mitochondrial antioxidant in every human cell. Anti-aging, energizing, fragile yellow-orange powder. Colloidal Oatmeal Finely milled whole oat kernel recognized by the FDA as a skin protectant, used to soothe eczema, itching, and irritation. D-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) The pure D-isomer of pro-vitamin B5. Converts to pantothenic acid in skin — humectant, soothing, and barrier-supporting. DMAE Skin-firming choline derivative. Temporary tightening effect. Loved and debated in anti-aging skincare. Ergothioneine A rare sulfur-containing amino acid with exceptional antioxidant stability. Selective protection against mitochondrial oxidative stress. Erythrulose A natural keto-sugar self-tanning agent that reacts with skin proteins more slowly than DHA, producing a more even, less orange tan. Ferulic Acid A potent antioxidant booster. Extends the activity of vitamin C and vitamin E and protects against UV damage. GABA Small amino acid neurotransmitter used topically as a surface muscle relaxant. Often positioned as a 'slow botox' alternative for expression-line smoothing. Gluconic Acid A very gentle polyhydroxy acid. Hydrating, mild exfoliation, and a useful natural chelator alternative to EDTA. Gluconolactone The gentlest exfoliating acid. A PHA that hydrates while it resurfaces. Pregnancy-friendly territory. Glycine The simplest amino acid. Humectant, skin-friendly, foundational building block of skin's NMF. Glycolic Acid The smallest and strongest AHA. Deep, fast exfoliation for resilient skin and visible resurfacing. Hyaluronic Acid A humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water. Comes in different molecular weights for different depths of hydration. Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein Premium African seed peptides for film-forming, conditioning, and a unique brand story. Hydrolyzed Hemp Protein Cleaved hemp seed peptides for film-forming, conditioning, and a clean-beauty brand story. Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein Cleaved jojoba seed protein for conditioning hair and skin films. Vegan and gluten-free. Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein broken into small peptides that form a light film on hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing roughness. Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Cleaved oat peptides for soft, soothing films on skin and hair. Vegan, gluten-aware, very gentle. Hydrolyzed Pea Protein Cleaved pea peptides for conditioning, light film, and a clean allergen profile. Vegan, soy-free, gluten-free. Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein Pseudo-cereal peptides with a complete amino acid profile. Lightweight conditioning for hair and skin. Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Vegan, gluten-free protein from rice. Conditions hair, smooths skin, and adds light film-forming action. Hydrolyzed Silk Protein Cleaved silk protein for premium hair and skin formulas. Silky film, smooth finish, lightweight conditioning. Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Cleaved soy peptides for film-forming, conditioning, and a subtle firming feel. Budget-friendly and vegan. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Cleaved wheat protein for hair and skin. Film-forming, conditioning, with mild humectant action. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate A modern retinoid ester that binds retinoid receptors directly. Comparable retinol-strength results with much better tolerance. Kojic Acid Tyrosinase-inhibiting brightener from fungal fermentation. Strong on pigmentation, fussy on stability. L-Ascorbic Acid The original, most potent form of vitamin C. The reference standard — but unstable, irritating at high doses, and demanding to formulate. Lactic Acid An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the surface, hydrates, and brightens. Gentler than glycolic, suited to dry and sensitive skin. Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F) An essential fatty acid the body cannot make. Supports barrier, calms inflammation, and unclogs pores in acne-prone skin. Lipoic Acid Universal antioxidant that works in both oil and water phases. Strong on free radicals, fussy with light. Liposomed Keratin Hydrolysed keratin protein encapsulated in lecithin liposomes for improved penetration. Used in hair-strengthening and barrier-supporting skincare formulas. Liposomed Wheat Germ Oil Wheat germ oil encapsulated in lecithin liposomes with sunflower oil and rosemary antioxidant. Delivers vitamin E and essential fatty acids deeper into skin than a plain oil application. Liquid Sulfur Pre-solubilised sulfur dispersion in PEG-30 castor oil. Easier-to-formulate version of elemental sulfur for blemish-targeted leave-on and rinse-off products. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) Stable, gentle vitamin C salt for sensitive skin. Brightens and supports collagen without the sting. Malic Acid Mid-strength AHA from apples. Larger molecule than glycolic, smaller than mandelic. Gentle resurfacing and pH adjustment. Mandelic Acid The gentlest AHA. Large molecule, slow penetration, ideal for sensitive skin, darker skin tones, and acne-prone skin. Marine Collagen Fish-derived hydrolyzed collagen peptides. Premium humectant film for skin and hair. Marine Elastin A film-forming protein derived from fish skin that improves skin elasticity and provides lightweight moisture retention. Menthol Crystals Intense cooling crystals extracted from mint oils, used in lip balms, muscle rubs, foot products, and shampoos for their analgesic and decongestant properties. Niacinamide Vitamin B3. Reduces redness, strengthens the skin barrier, regulates oil, and plays well with almost everything. Oat Beta-Glucan A specific beta-glucan from oats with strong barrier-soothing and wound-healing data. Different from yeast beta-glucan. Orchid Stem Cells Cultured plant stem cell extract from a Japanese orchid species. Positioned for anti-ageing, firmness, and elasticity claims through stimulation of skin's own structural proteins. Ozonized Oils Carrier oils treated with ozone gas to create antimicrobial ozonides — used in skin repair, acne, fungal issues, and oral care. Panthenol Pro-vitamin B5. Humectant + film-former that softens hair and skin and calms irritation. Papain Proteolytic enzyme from papaya. Gentle enzymatic exfoliation at neutral pH. No photosensitivity. Phloretin A potent antioxidant flavonoid from apple skins. Reinforces vitamin C's antioxidant network and helps even tone. Phytic Acid A gentle plant-derived acid and chelator. Mild exfoliation, brightening, and metal-ion control in one ingredient. Phytosphingosine A natural skin lipid and ceramide precursor. Antibacterial, barrier-supporting, and far easier to formulate with than the ceramides themselves. Pseudo-Ceramides (Sphingolipids) Synthetic molecules that mimic the structure and barrier function of real ceramides. Easier and cheaper to formulate with. Reishi Extract An adaptogenic mushroom extract rich in beta-glucans and triterpenes that calms inflammation, supports the skin barrier, and provides antioxidant protection. Resveratrol Polyphenol from red grape skins and Japanese knotweed. Strong antioxidant, fragile in formula, premium price. Retinaldehyde (Retinal) One step closer to active retinoic acid than retinol. Faster results, better tolerance, harder to formulate. Retinol Vitamin A. The gold-standard anti-aging active for cell turnover and collagen. Delicate, light-sensitive, requires careful packaging. Retinyl Acetate A simple, inexpensive retinyl ester. Gentler than retinol and easier to source — but milder effects. Retinyl Palmitate The gentlest retinoid form — vitamin A bound to a fatty acid. Slow-acting, well-tolerated, and ideal for sensitive skin. Retinyl Propionate A mild retinyl ester. Gentler than retinol, faster than retinyl palmitate — a sensible middle-ground retinoid. Saccharide Isomerate A plant-derived carbohydrate complex that mimics the natural sugars in human skin. Long-lasting hydration that binds to skin proteins. Salicylic Acid A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside pores. Effective at clearing congestion and breakouts. Sericin Protein The outer silk protein — water-binding film for premium skin and hair products. Different from silk fibroin. Silk Amino Acids Hydrolyzed fibroin protein from silk cocoons — a film-forming, moisture-binding ingredient that adds smoothness and sheen to both skin and hair products. Snail Mucin Filtered secretion from garden snails, packed with glycosaminoglycans, allantoin, and copper peptides — a K-beauty staple for hydration, wound healing, and scar reduction. Sodium Ascorbate A mineral salt of ascorbic acid. Gentler and more pH-friendly than the parent acid — but still less stable than the modern derivatives. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) A stable vitamin C derivative with strong evidence for acne. Brightens, evens tone, and reduces inflammation in oily skin. Sulfur A keratolytic and antimicrobial element used to treat acne, dandruff, and seborrheic dermatitis in DIY skincare. Tartaric Acid Wine-grape AHA with a soft exfoliating feel and chelating bonus. Often used in AHA blends. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate An oil-soluble vitamin C ester with deep skin penetration. The premium oil-phase vitamin C choice. Tocopheryl Acetate The most common stable ester form of Vitamin E used in cosmetics — resists oxidation during storage and converts to active tocopherol on the skin. Tranexamic Acid A small synthetic molecule with strong evidence for stubborn hyperpigmentation and melasma. Brightens without sun-sensitizing the skin. Trans-Resveratrol The biologically active stereoisomer of resveratrol. Direct antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin firmness support. Tremella Extract A polysaccharide-rich mushroom extract that rivals hyaluronic acid for hydration, with a lighter, dewier skin feel. Ubiquinol (CoQ10 reduced) The reduced, active form of CoQ10. More potent and more easily used by skin cells — at a steeper price. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) The most potent antioxidant brightener. Effective but unstable — formulate fresh and pack carefully. Vitamin E (Tocopherol) The oil-phase antioxidant. Protects oils from going rancid and supports skin against oxidative damage. NOT a preservative. Vitamin K1 (Phytonadione) A fat-soluble vitamin used in cosmetics for under-eye dark circles, post-procedure bruising, and visible capillary support. Zinc PCA Sebum-regulating zinc salt for oily and acne-prone skin. Calms, balances, and reduces shine.
Active / Deodorant (2)
Active Ingredient (5)
Ajowan Extract Lipophilic CO2 extract rich in thymol. Potent antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant for deodorants, anti-acne, and foot care. Capsicum Extract A CO2 extract of hot pepper fruit rich in capsaicinoids and carotenoids, used for warming pain-relief formulas and lip plumping. Fenugreek Extract A CO2 extract of fenugreek seeds loaded with omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids, valued for hair strengthening and skin nourishment. Hop Extract A CO2 extract of hop flowers with potent antibacterial properties, primarily used in natural deodorant formulas to neutralise body odour. Pineapple Extract Whole-fruit hydroglyceric extract of pineapple. Gentle enzymatic exfoliation, brightening, and anti-inflammatory activity from bromelain and fruit acids.
Amino Acid (1)
Botanical (1)
Botanical Extract (52)
Acai Extract An antioxidant-rich extract from the Amazonian acai berry. Loaded with anthocyanins and polyphenols that protect skin from oxidative damage. Agave Extract A sugary extract from agave plant stems or leaves. Natural humectant with prebiotic action and mild moisturising character. Aloe Vera A classic soothing botanical from the gel inside aloe leaves. Cooling, hydrating, calming for irritated skin. Apple Extract A pale yellow extract from apple fruit, containing natural fruit acids, polyphenols, and trace sugars. Mild humectant with gentle exfoliation. Artichoke Leaf Extract A green-amber extract from artichoke leaves. Rich in cynarin and chlorogenic acid. Tightens pores and supports skin clarity. Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract A nutrient-dense brown seaweed extract rich in fucoidan, alginates, and marine minerals that remineralizes and firms the skin. Ashwagandha Extract An adaptogenic root extract used in Ayurvedic medicine for over 3,000 years. In skincare, it acts as an antioxidant and anti-stress active. Bamboo Extract A silica-rich botanical extract that strengthens hair and nails while providing mild astringent benefits for skin. Blueberry Extract A purple-blue antioxidant extract from blueberries or bilberries. High in anthocyanins, vitamin C, and small amounts of natural acids. Burdock Root Extract A traditional skin-clearing extract from the burdock root. Mildly antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-balancing. Butcher's Broom Extract A venotonic botanical extract that strengthens capillaries and reduces puffiness. A cornerstone ingredient in eye creams, anti-redness serums, and leg care products. Cat's Claw Extract An Amazonian vine extract used traditionally for inflammation. Modest skincare actives, primarily marketed for anti-inflammatory positioning. Centella Extract A repair-focused botanical (madecassoside, asiaticoside) that supports skin regeneration and barrier function. Comfrey Extract A traditional 'knitbone' herb. Contains natural allantoin and rosmarinic acid for soothing and skin repair. Cranberry Extract A pink-red antioxidant extract from cranberries. High in proanthocyanidins, vitamin C, and salicylic-style fruit acids. Edelweiss Extract A rare alpine flower extract with unusually concentrated antioxidants developed to survive high-altitude UV. A boutique active for anti-aging serums. Eyebright Extract A traditional European herb extract prized for eye-area skincare. Anti-inflammatory, astringent, and decongestant — one of the few botanicals with a historical reputation specifically for the skin around the eyes. Fig Extract An amber-coloured extract from the fig fruit. Mild humectant, mild AHA-style acids, and a small amount of natural sugars. Fucus Extract A mineral-rich bladderwrack seaweed extract used for firming, remineralizing, and body-contouring treatments. Ginger Root Extract A warming, slightly spicy extract from ginger root. Anti-inflammatory, circulation-boosting, and naturally antioxidant. Goji Berry Extract An amber-red extract from the goji berry (wolfberry). High in carotenoids, especially zeaxanthin, plus polysaccharides and antioxidants. Grapefruit Extract A pale yellow citrus extract from the grapefruit fruit. High in vitamin C, naringin, and citric acid. Mildly astringent and brightening. Green Tea Extract Antioxidant-rich extract (catechins, EGCG) that protects skin lipids from oxidation and calms inflammation. Guava Extract A pale pink-yellow extract from the tropical guava fruit. Unusually high in vitamin C (more than oranges) and rich in mild fruit acids. Guggul Extract An Ayurvedic resin extract with potent anti-acne and anti-inflammatory activity. Contains guggulsterones that reduce sebum production and target acne-causing bacteria. Helichrysum Extract An amber extract from the Mediterranean immortelle flower. Anti-inflammatory and skin-regenerating, with research data on scar reduction. Hyssop Extract A Mediterranean herb extract with mild antimicrobial and astringent character. Used in traditional skincare for blemish-prone skin. Indian Gooseberry Extract A water-soluble extract from the amla fruit. One of the highest natural sources of vitamin C and tannins. Javanese Turmeric Extract A Southeast Asian turmeric relative with a different active compound — xanthorrhizol — that delivers antimicrobial, brightening, and anti-inflammatory benefits without the intense yellow staining of regular turmeric. Kakadu Plum Extract An Australian native fruit extract with the highest known natural concentration of vitamin C — roughly 50x that of oranges. Kumquat Extract A small bright orange citrus extract from the kumquat fruit. Vitamin C-rich with a high carotenoid content and natural fruit acids. Licorice Extract A soothing, brightening botanical containing glabridin and glycyrrhizin. Calms redness and evens uneven tone. Linden Flower Extract A pale yellow extract from the dried linden (lime tree) flower. Gentle, anti-inflammatory, and calming. A classic in baby and sensitive-skin care. Mallow Extract A pale green-amber extract from the common mallow flower. High in mucilage; soothing, hydrating, and naturally astringent. Meiwa Kumquat Extract A standardized citrus extract rich in oligo-melanin-modulating polyphenols. Targets uneven tone and dullness in mature skin. Melon Extract A pale yellow extract from honeydew or cantaloupe melon. Rich in natural sugars, mild humectant, and contains a small amount of superoxide dismutase. Moringa Seed Extract A protein-rich extract from moringa seeds. Anti-pollution active with measured ability to remove particulate matter from skin. Mulberry Root Extract A white-yellow extract from the white mulberry root bark. One of the best-studied natural tyrosinase inhibitors for skin brightening. Oat Extract A soothing, anti-inflammatory botanical rich in beta-glucan and avenanthramides, excellent for calming irritated and itchy skin. Olive Leaf Extract A green-brown extract from olive leaves, rich in oleuropein. Antioxidant, antimicrobial, and a credible anti-aging active. Opuntia Extract A hydrating, soothing extract from prickly pear cactus pads. Rich in polysaccharides and betalains that form a moisture-locking film, calm irritation, and provide antioxidant protection — distinct from the expensive prickly pear seed oil. Pansy Extract A gentle, soothing extract from wild pansy (heartsease) with a long tradition in European herbal medicine for eczema, cradle cap, and sensitive skin. One of the few botanical extracts genuinely suitable for baby skincare. Raspberry Extract A vivid red antioxidant extract from raspberries. High in ellagic acid, vitamin C, and anthocyanins. Mild brightening and anti-redness support. Rosemary Antioxidant (ROE) Oil-soluble antioxidant from rosemary leaves. Protects oils and butters from going rancid. NOT a preservative. Schisandra Extract An adaptogenic berry extract rich in lignans and antioxidants. Protects the skin barrier, fights oxidative stress, and supports skin resilience — a staple in K-beauty and adaptogenic skincare. Sea Fennel Extract A coastal succulent extract with measured retinol-like activity. Used as a gentle natural alternative to retinol. Soapwort Extract A traditional natural surfactant from the soapwort root. Gentle, mildly foaming, and saponin-rich. A small-batch cleansing alternative. Soy Isoflavones A standardized extract rich in plant estrogen-like molecules. Supports mature skin firmness, density, and hormonal-aging signs. Spilanthes Extract A 'natural botox alternative' that contains spilanthol — a compound causing temporary, localised muscle relaxation to soften expression lines. Also used in lip plumpers for its distinctive tingling effect. Strawberry Extract A pink-red extract from the strawberry fruit. High in vitamin C, ellagic acid, and natural fruit acids. Mild brightening and antioxidant action. Sulforaphane (Broccoli Sprout Extract) A potent sulfur-containing molecule from young broccoli sprouts. Activates the skin's own antioxidant defense pathway. Wild Yam Extract A traditional women's-health herb with diosgenin content. Mild moisturising character; the hormone-balancing claims are largely marketing.
Botanical Extract (Animal-Derived) (2)
Botanical Extract (Fermented) (1)
Botanical Powder (6)
Green Tea Powder Finely milled green tea leaf. Used in masks, scrubs, and powdered cleansers for the polyphenol load, mild exfoliation, and green colour. Orris Root Powder Aged and milled iris root. Classic perfumery fixative, mild dry shampoo and powder base, with a sweet violet-like scent. Rose Petal Powder Ground dried rose petals used for gentle exfoliation, natural colour, and mild astringent properties in masks, scrubs, and bath products. Shikakai Powder Natural saponin-rich cleansing powder from the Acacia concinna tree. A traditional Ayurvedic hair cleanser that foams gently and conditions while washing. Spirulina Dried and milled blue-green micro-algae. Used in masks for the phycocyanin colour, mineral content, and antioxidant load. Turmeric Powder A bright yellow-orange root powder packed with curcumin. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, but stains everything it touches.
Butter (12)
Avocado Butter A soft, creamy butter made by hydrogenating avocado oil so it sets at room temperature. Rich, slip-heavy, easy to whip. Bacuri Butter Wild-harvested Amazonian seed butter with a surprisingly dry skin feel despite being rich in palmitic acid. Excellent absorption and used for scar reduction, dry skin repair, and hair conditioning. Cocoa Butter A firm, brittle butter from cocoa beans. Excellent at sealing in moisture and giving structure to bars and balms. Cupuaçu Butter Amazonian cousin of cocoa butter that holds water like no other plant butter. Rich, silky, and humectant. Illipe Butter Tropical butter from Borneo with a cocoa-butter-like profile but softer melt. Excellent cocoa butter substitute in lip and body products. Kokum Butter A hard, almost odorless butter from Indian kokum seeds. Resists graininess and gives structure to bars and balms. Mango Butter A softer butter pressed from mango kernels, high in oleic and stearic acid. Absorbs faster than shea with a drier finish. Murumuru Butter A creamy, lauric-rich butter from Amazonian murumuru palm seeds. Excellent for hair and conditioning body butters. Orange Peel Butter A soft, naturally orange-scented butter made by blending hydrogenated vegetable oil with cold-pressed orange peel oil. Smells like the rind, not the juice. Sal Butter Very hard, high-stearic-acid butter from the Indian sal tree. Excellent for firm bar products, lip balms, and solid lotions. Shea Butter A rich vegetable butter from shea nuts, high in oleic and stearic acid. Deeply moisturizing and supports skin elasticity. Tucuma Butter Semi-hard Amazonian butter rich in lauric and myristic acids. Prized for hair products, lip balms, and moisture-sealing formulas.
Carrier Oil (38)
Abyssinian Oil Light, silky, fast-absorbing oil rich in erucic acid. Premium dry-touch finish for hair and face. Acai Oil Deep green Amazonian oil pressed from acai palm fruit pulp. Oleic-dominant with unusually high phytosterols and phenolics — a stable, antioxidant-rich option for anti-aging formulas. Amaranth Seed Oil Cold-pressed seed oil notable for its naturally high squalene content (~6-8%). Light feel, barrier-supporting, oxidatively stable for a polyunsaturated oil. Amla Oil An infused or expressed oil from the Indian gooseberry, traditionally used to darken, condition, and strengthen hair. Rich in vitamin C and tannins. Baobab Oil Premium African seed oil with omega-3, 6, and 9. Hydrating, anti-aging, strong sustainability story. Blackcurrant Seed Oil Rare seed oil with a unique combination of gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), and stearidonic acid. Used for inflammation, eczema, and barrier repair. Buriti Oil Deep orange-red Amazonian fruit oil. One of the highest natural beta-carotene loads of any plant oil — used for sun-damage repair and mature-skin formulas. Camelina Oil A golden, omega-3-rich seed oil from the false flax plant. Light, fast-absorbing, and unusually shelf-stable for a polyunsaturated oil. Carrot Seed Oil Cold-pressed seed oil with carotenoid and tocopherol content. Used in low percentages in mature-skin and sun-comfort formulas. Distinct from carrot tissue infusion. Cedar Nut Oil Highly unsaturated Siberian pine nut oil containing rare fatty acids like pinoleic and sciadonic acid. Exceptionally high phytosterols — a specialist oil for inflamed, psoriatic, and eczema-prone skin. Cranberry Seed Oil A pale gold seed oil with an unusually balanced 1:1 ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 fatty acids. Rich in tocopherols and tocotrienols. Dicaprylyl Carbonate Light, fast-spreading emollient ester derived from coconut or palm. A widely used silicone alternative with a dry, silky skin feel and excellent pigment-dispersing ability. Elderberry Seed Oil Vivid green oil high in both linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid with a light, non-greasy skin feel. Anti-inflammatory and regenerative — excellent for oily, acne-prone, and mature skin alike. Hazelnut Oil Light, astringent, fast-absorbing nut oil. A face-oil favourite for oily and combination skin. Kahai Oil Cold-pressed Colombian Amazonian nut oil. One of the highest natural sources of retinol-like vitamin A esters and omega-3 linolenic acid among plant oils — used for anti-aging and regenerative skin care. Karanja Oil Indian seed oil with natural UV-absorbing flavonoids. Antibacterial and a folk-medicine pedigree. Kukui Nut Oil Polyunsaturated nut oil from the Hawaiian state tree. Very light feel, fast absorption, traditional use on sunburn and dry skin. Laurel Berry Oil Dark green, aromatic Mediterranean oil pressed from bay laurel berries. The defining ingredient of traditional Aleppo soap. Maracujá Oil Light, fast-absorbing seed oil with very high linoleic content (~70%). Calming for acne-prone, oily, and barrier-compromised skin. Monoi Oil A traditional Polynesian preparation of fresh tiare flowers steeped in refined coconut oil. Solid below 24 C, intensely tropical scent. Moringa Oil Light, exceptionally stable oleic-rich oil from moringa tree seeds. High behenic acid content, premium feel, near-zero scent. Neem Oil Cold-pressed seed oil from the neem tree. Strong sulfurous scent, traditional use on scalp, acne, fungal skin, and as a natural insect-deterrent ingredient. Oat Oil Cold-pressed lipid fraction of oat kernels. Unusually rich in ceramides and phospholipids alongside a linoleic-dominant fatty acid profile — one of the most skin-barrier-compatible plant oils available. Ojon Oil Deep orange-red Amazonian palm oil loaded with carotenoids. Roughly half saturated, half unsaturated — specifically effective for chemically damaged and colour-treated hair. Paprika Seed Oil Cold-pressed oil from paprika seeds with a striking orange-red colour, high linoleic acid content, and exceptional tocopherol levels. Even 1% visibly tints a formula. Peach Kernel Oil Light, elegant carrier oil from peach pits with a finer skin feel than almond or apricot kernel. Excellent emollient for dry, aging, and sensitive skin. Pequi Fruit Oil Amazonian fruit oil rich in palmitic and oleic acids with a notable carotenoid content. Semi-solid at cool temperatures, liquid in warmth. Excellent for dry skin and curly hair styling. Perilla Seed Oil Asian seed oil rich in omega-3 alpha-linolenic acid (~55-65%). Used for sensitive, atopic, and anti-inflammatory skincare. Poppy Seed Oil Light, fast-absorbing seed oil with high linoleic content. Barrier support and a delicate culinary lineage. Pracaxi Oil Amazonian seed oil with the highest natural behenic acid content of any cosmetic oil (~20%). Used in stretch-mark, scar, and hyperpigmentation formulas. Sacha Inchi Oil Peruvian seed oil with one of the highest natural omega-3 (ALA) concentrations of any plant — typically 45-50%. Lightweight, fast-absorbing, repair-focused. Safflower Oil Affordable light oil with two grades — high-oleic (stable) and high-linoleic (barrier-supporting). Strawberry Seed Oil Cold-pressed seed oil with a balanced linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid profile, moderate tocopherols, and a light non-greasy feel. Excellent for damaged, sensitive, and mature skin. Tigernut Oil Aromatic, nutty-scented oil from Burkina Faso with a high oleic acid content, surprisingly low iodine value for a liquid oil, and excellent phytosterol levels. Versatile, heat-stable, and well-tolerated. Vanilla Infused Oil A carrier oil infused with vanilla bean pods. Warm, gourmand scent with mild antioxidant character. Used for fragrance more than active skincare. Walnut Oil Cold-pressed nut oil rich in linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid. Drying, fast-absorbing, used in hair masks and dry-touch face oils. Wheat Germ Oil Heavy, vitamin-E-rich oil. Anti-aging support and natural antioxidant booster for other oils. Yangu Oil Light, fast-absorbing African seed oil with a high linoleic acid content. A standout carrier for facial oils and lightweight moisturisers, especially for oily and combination skin.
Chelator (4)
Disodium EDTA The workhorse chelating agent. Binds metal ions to improve formula stability, color, and preservative performance. GLDA (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate) A biodegradable amino-acid-derived chelator. Performance close to EDTA, natural-certified friendly. Sodium Gluconate Sugar-derived chelator that binds metal ions. Natural alternative to EDTA for clean-beauty formulas. Sodium Phytate A plant-derived chelating agent (from rice or corn) for natural-positioning formulas. Weaker than EDTA, gentler footprint.
Clay (5)
Bentonite Clay Strongly absorbent volcanic ash clay. Detoxifying and purifying for oily skin and problem masks. French Green Clay Mineral-rich green clay from Illite deposits. Strong absorbent for oily and acne-prone skin. Kaolin Clay Gentle white clay from kaolinite mineral. Mild absorbent and exfoliant for sensitive, dry, and normal skin. Pink Clay Gentle pink-tinted kaolin. Mild absorbent for sensitive and normal skin with a brand-friendly natural colour. Rhassoul Clay Mineral-rich Moroccan clay used for centuries in hair and skin care. Cleansing without stripping.
Clay / Mineral (1)
Co-emulsifier (2)
Colorant (9)
Alkanna A purple-red root dye that infuses into oil, popular for naturally coloring lip balms, soaps, and oil-based serums. Annatto A natural orange-yellow colorant extracted from achiote seeds, used to tint soaps, lip products, and lotions. Chlorophyll A concentrated green pigment available in water-soluble and oil-soluble forms, used to naturally color soaps, lotions, and lip products. Chrome Oxide Green An extremely stable, opaque green mineral pigment — the most reliable way to get true green in mineral makeup and soap. Indigo A blue plant-based dye powder used in soap, hair color, and artistic cosmetics for cool blue to purple tones. Iron Oxides Mineral pigments in red, yellow, and black — the foundation of every natural-looking makeup shade from nude to deep brown. Ultramarine Blue A vivid synthetic mineral pigment that delivers true blue in eyeshadow, soap, bath bombs, and color cosmetics. Ultramarine Pink A soft pink-to-rose synthetic mineral pigment made by heating ultramarine blue with ammonium chloride. Heat stable, alkali stable, but degrades in acid — keep it above pH 4. Ultramarine Violet A deep violet synthetic mineral pigment from the ultramarine family. Heat and alkali stable, but not acid stable — keep it above pH 4.
Conditioning Agent (2)
Behentrimonium Chloride Powerful cationic conditioner for hair. Detangles, smooths, and reduces frizz. The salon-conditioner workhorse. Cationic Guar A positively charged derivative of guar gum designed specifically for hair conditioning. Clings to the hair surface, detangles, smooths, and reduces static.
Educational (3)
IFRA-Compliant Fragrance — Overview How fragrance use rates and allergen labeling work in cosmetics. The IFRA framework and what it means for DIY formulators. Minoxidil — Note for DIY Formulators Minoxidil is a regulated drug, not a cosmetic ingredient. This entry explains what to do instead in DIY hair products. Phthalates — Why They Are Avoided in Modern Cosmetics An overview of the phthalate family in cosmetics, the safety concerns, and what to use instead.
Emollient (17)
Aloe Vera Palmitate An oil-soluble form of aloe vera, modified by ester-bonding to palmitic acid. Gives aloe's calming benefits in anhydrous and oil-phase products. Brassica Oil Copolymer A clear, plant-derived polymer often called 'plant silicone.' Mimics the slip and dry-touch finish of dimethicone without using silicones. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate A clear, low-viscosity ester that gives lotions a silky, fast-absorbing feel without being greasy. The unsung backbone of countless face creams. Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate A medium-weight emollient ester that delivers smooth, non-greasy skin conditioning and builds viscosity in the oil phase. Dicaprylyl Ether An ultra-lightweight, dry-touch emollient with a near-volatile feel that serves as a plant-derived silicone alternative. Ethylhexyl Olivate A naturally-derived emollient made from olive oil fatty acids. Closely mimics the skin's own sebum lipids. Ethylhexyl Palmitate A clear, light, fast-absorbing ester used as a slip-enhancer in lotions and makeup. Cheap, neutral, and reliable. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene A crystal-clear, ultra-stable synthetic emollient that delivers glossy, non-tacky finishes — the backbone of most lip gloss formulas. Isoamyl Cocoate A lightweight, fast-absorbing coconut-derived ester that works as a natural alternative to silicones. Isododecane A volatile, plant-derived hydrocarbon that gives instant slip and dries to a powder finish. The natural replacement for cyclomethicone. Isohexadecane A slightly heavier, less volatile relative of isododecane. Light and dry-feeling but with more cushion and longer skin presence. Isononyl Isononanoate A clear, ultra-light branched ester with a powder-dry finish. Used in primers and makeup where a non-greasy, satin feel matters. Lanolin A waxy, water-binding fat from sheep's wool. The strongest natural occlusive available, and one of the few ingredients safe for nipple care during breastfeeding. Mineral Oil A clear, colourless, odourless liquid hydrocarbon refined from crude oil. Cheap, stable, and one of the most rigorously studied cosmetic ingredients. Octyldodecanol A branched, oily fatty alcohol with the slip of an oil and the conditioning of a butter. The secret ingredient in many high-end lipsticks. Petrolatum The gold-standard occlusive ingredient. Cosmetic-grade petrolatum forms a near-impermeable seal that reduces water loss by up to 99%. Sucrose Cocoate A sugar-derived emollient with skin-conditioning and humectant properties. Plant-based, gentle, and an unusually good substitute for petrolatum in some balms.
Emollient Ester (1)
Emulsifier (29)
BTMS-25 Cationic conditioning emulsifier with half the actives of BTMS-50. Thicker product per gram, milder conditioning. BTMS-50 A cationic (positively charged) emulsifier that conditions hair. The default choice for DIY hair conditioners and detangling sprays. Ceteareth-20 A high-HLB non-ionic emulsifier that produces stable, elegant oil-in-water lotions and creams. Cetearyl Alcohol and Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate Anionic self-emulsifying wax built from fatty alcohols and a sulfated fatty alcohol salt. Produces thick, stable oil-in-water creams with a classic rich skin feel. Emulsan II An Ecocert non-ionic emulsifier with a gel-cream feel. Plant-derived from glycerin, stearic acid, and citric acid. Emulsifying Wax NF A forgiving non-ionic emulsifier that produces stable, light-bodied lotions and creams. The classic beginner's wax. Fluid Lecithin Liquid soy or sunflower phospholipid complex. Natural emulsifier and skin-identical lipid for serums and emulsions. Glyceryl Behenate Waxy co-emulsifier and texture modifier. Stabilizes emulsions, adds body to creams, and works in sticks and balms. Glyceryl Monostearate (GMS) Lipophilic co-emulsifier and opacifier that gives lotions their classic pearlescent white appearance. Usually paired with a primary emulsifier. Glyceryl Stearate A non-ionic co-emulsifier and emollient. On its own it cannot form a stable emulsion — it always needs a partner. Do not confuse with Glyceryl Stearate SE. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Natural-positioned, mild emulsifier for light lotions. Ecocert-friendly and easy to work with. Glyceryl Stearate SE The self-emulsifying version of Glyceryl Stearate. Anionic, budget-friendly primary emulsifier — but needs stabilization. Glyceryl Stearate SE and Sucrose Stearate Pre-blended non-ionic emulsifier combining a self-emulsifying glyceride with a sucrose ester. Very gentle, suitable for sensitive skin and baby skincare formulations. Lanolin Alcohol The unsaponifiable sterol-and-fatty-alcohol fraction of lanolin. A waxy W/O emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer that adds richness and body without greasiness. Lecithin A natural phospholipid emulsifier from soy or sunflower. Weak on its own — best used as a co-emulsifier or active-delivery system. Lysolecithin Cold-process O/W emulsifier with outstanding stability. Creates silky, sprayable emulsions across a wide oil range. Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate Sugar-derived, mild emulsifier for sensitive-skin formulas. Smooth, elegant finish, low irritation potential. Montanov 68 A plant-derived non-ionic emulsifier from sugar and fatty alcohol. Builds lamellar liquid-crystals for a cushioned, skin-mimicking texture. Olivem 1000 An olive-derived non-ionic emulsifier that builds lamellar liquid-crystal structures, giving creams a velvety, skin-mimicking feel. Ecocert. PEG-100 Stearate A very high-HLB non-ionic emulsifier that produces lightweight, fast-absorbing oil-in-water lotions. Polawax NF A branded version of the Emulsifying Wax NF standard. Same INCI as e-wax, slightly different ratio, slightly richer cream. Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate W/O emulsifier that creates unusually light, silky, even sprayable water-in-oil emulsions. Palm-free and vegan. Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Mild liquid solubilizer for fragrance and oil in water-based products. Natural alternative to polysorbates. Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate Palm-free W/O emulsifier and self-emulsifying agent for cleansing oils, balms, and scrubs that rinse clean with water. Sorbitan Stearate A low-HLB, PEG-free non-ionic emulsifier used for water-in-oil creams or as a co-emulsifier in oil-in-water systems. Steareth-21 A high-HLB ethoxylated emulsifier designed to work with Steareth-2 as a self-emulsifying pair for stable, rich oil-in-water creams. Sucragel A natural cold-process gel emulsifier that turns oil into a clear cleansing or styling gel. The cleansing oil base. Sucrose Stearate Sugar-and-fat ester emulsifier. Natural-positioned, exceptionally mild, with a soft skin feel. Wheat Emulsifying Wax Pre-blended emulsifier combining a hydrolysed wheat protein lipopeptide with glyceryl stearate and cetearyl alcohol. Forms liquid-crystal emulsions with high oil-load tolerance and a conditioning skin feel.
Essential Oil (70)
Anise Essential Oil Sweet, licorice-scented middle note. High in trans-anethole with significant estrogenic activity — not for everyday skincare use. Balsam Fir Essential Oil Clean, sweet-balsamic forest oil from Canadian fir needles — grounding, respiratory-supportive, and one of the gentlest conifers for skincare. Basil Essential Oil Energizing, clarifying top-to-middle note with a fresh herbaceous-sweet aroma. Linalool chemotype preferred for skincare safety. Bay Laurel Essential Oil Fresh, herbaceous, camphoraceous oil with strong antimicrobial properties — excellent for scalp and hair formulas but IFRA-restricted due to methyl eugenol. Bergamot Essential Oil Bright, citrus-floral essential oil from bergamot fruit peel. Famous as the flavour of Earl Grey tea and the top note of countless perfumes. Phototoxic unless bergaptene-free. Black Pepper Essential Oil Warm, spicy, dry-woody oil that stimulates circulation and adds depth to muscle rubs and masculine blends. Black Spruce Essential Oil Fresh, forest-like conifer oil rich in bornyl acetate — valued for muscle support, respiratory blends, and its reputed cortisone-like adrenal-support properties. Blue Tansy Essential Oil Deep blue, chamazulene-rich oil with potent anti-inflammatory and antihistamine properties — expensive and highly sought-after for calming reactive skin. Cajeput Essential Oil Fresh, camphoraceous middle note closely related to tea tree. Excellent antimicrobial with low irritation risk, often more affordable. Camphor Essential Oil Strong, penetrating, medicinal cooling oil from the white camphor fraction — the only safe grade for cosmetic use. Cardamom Essential Oil Warm, spicy-sweet, slightly floral oil prized in perfumery and wellness blends for its excellent blending properties. Carrot Seed Essential Oil Steam-distilled essential oil from wild carrot seeds. Premium mature-skin ingredient; very different from carrot seed fixed oil and carrot tissue oil. Cedarwood Atlas Essential Oil Warm, woody, slightly sweet essential oil from Atlas cedar wood. Hair-growth applications, base note in perfumery, insect-deterrent uses. Chamomile German Blue Essential Oil Deep blue essential oil from German chamomile flowers. Intense colour from chamazulene. Premium anti-inflammatory EO for damaged, reactive, and inflamed skin. Chamomile Roman Essential Oil Sweet, apple-like essential oil from Roman chamomile flowers. Premium calming EO for sensitive skin, baby products, and stress-relief aromatherapy. Cinnamon Bark Essential Oil Warm, spicy essential oil from Ceylon cinnamon bark. Powerful antimicrobial but high sensitisation risk; strict usage limits apply. Cistus Essential Oil Rich, amber-woody oil with honey-like warmth — a premium anti-aging and skin-repair ingredient with excellent safety and a luxury price tag. Citronella Essential Oil Sharp, lemony-grassy essential oil from citronella grass. The most widely-used natural insect repellent essential oil. Clary Sage Essential Oil Sweet, herbal, slightly nutty essential oil from clary sage. Best known for traditional women's-wellness use; gentler than common sage. Clove Bud Essential Oil Warm, intensely spicy essential oil from clove flower buds. Powerful antimicrobial and traditional dental analgesic; strict usage limits apply due to eugenol content. Copaiba Essential Oil Steam-distilled from oleoresin, extremely high in beta-caryophyllene (40-80%) — one of the gentlest and most anti-inflammatory essential oils available. Cypress Essential Oil Fresh, clean, woody middle-to-base note. Low irritation risk, excellent in deodorants and men's blends. Eucalyptus Essential Oil Crisp, camphoraceous essential oil from eucalyptus leaves. Workhorse for chest rubs, foot creams, and refreshing washes; dominant chemistry is 1,8-cineole. Fennel Essential Oil Warm, sweet, anise-herbaceous middle note. Contains trans-anethole with estrogenic activity — significant safety restrictions apply. Fragonia Essential Oil Australian native with a uniquely balanced chemistry — roughly equal parts cineole, linalool, and alpha-terpineol. Gentle, versatile, and suitable even for children over 3. Frankincense Essential Oil Resinous, citrus-balsamic essential oil from Boswellia trees. Premium positioning for mature skin, scar care, and meditation-style products. Geranium Essential Oil Sweet, rosy, slightly green essential oil from Pelargonium leaves. Widely used in skincare for the gentle floral character and traditional hormone-balancing claims. Ginger Essential Oil Warm, spicy essential oil from ginger root. Used in muscle balms, circulation oils, and warming massage products. Helichrysum Essential Oil Premium essential oil from Helichrysum italicum flowers. Famed for scar, bruise, and skin-repair applications; one of the more expensive cosmetic EOs. Hinoki Essential Oil Japanese cypress with a clean, woody, spa-like scent. Calming and antimicrobial, deeply tied to Japanese bathing culture. Ho Wood Essential Oil Soft, woody-floral oil with exceptionally high linalool content — the sustainable, gentle alternative to rosewood for face and sensitive-skin products. Juniper Berry Essential Oil Crisp, woody-fresh essential oil from juniper berries. Traditional use in detox, circulation, and water-retention formulas; gin-like scent. Lavender Essential Oil The workhorse essential oil of skincare. Calming, well-tolerated, safe across a wide range of products. Steam-distilled from Lavandula angustifolia flowers. Lemon Myrtle Essential Oil Australian native and the world's highest natural citral source (90-98%). Intensely lemony with powerful antimicrobial action, but requires very careful dilution due to citral sensitization risk. Lemongrass Essential Oil Sharp, lemony essential oil from lemongrass leaves. Dominated by citral; used in deodorants, refreshing washes, and insect-deterrent body sprays. Lime Essential Oil Bright, sharp citrus top note available in cold-pressed (phototoxic) and distilled (non-phototoxic) versions. Critical to know which you have. Litsea Cubeba Essential Oil Bright, intensely lemony essential oil high in citral — a popular soap-making staple with significant sensitization potential that demands careful dosing in leave-on products. Magnolia Essential Oil Soft, sweet, creamy-floral oil available in leaf and bark types. The leaf version (90% linalool) is exceptionally gentle — a sophisticated alternative to ylang-ylang without the headache risk. Mandarin Essential Oil Sweet, tangy, candy-like citrus oil — one of the gentlest in the citrus family, suitable for children's and pregnancy-safe formulations. Manuka Essential Oil New Zealand native with powerful antimicrobial properties. Warm, herbaceous, and earthy — NOT the same plant as tea tree, despite the frequent comparison. Marjoram Essential Oil Warm, herbaceous, gently camphoraceous middle note. Calming and muscle-relaxing with an excellent safety profile. Not to be confused with oregano. Myrrh Essential Oil Steam-distilled essential oil from Commiphora myrrha resin. Brighter and more aromatic than the resinoid; used for mature skin, scar care, and meditation aromatherapy. Neroli Essential Oil Bright, sweet, fresh-floral essential oil steam-distilled from bitter orange blossoms. Premium skincare and perfumery ingredient. Niaouli Essential Oil Fresh, camphoraceous essential oil from niaouli leaves. Melaleuca cousin of tea tree; respiratory, immune-support, and gentler antimicrobial uses. Nutmeg Essential Oil Warm, sweet, spicy oil with strong analgesic properties — effective in muscle pain formulas but requires careful dosing due to myristicin content. Oregano Essential Oil Extremely potent antimicrobial dominated by carvacrol. A 'hot' oil that causes severe skin irritation undiluted — heavy dilution and short-term use only. Palmarosa Essential Oil Floral, rosy, gentle middle note with exceptionally high geraniol content. One of the safest and most skin-friendly essential oils available. Palo Santo Essential Oil Sweet, woody oil with minty-citrusy undertones from sustainably fallen heartwood — calming, antimicrobial, and increasingly scrutinized for ethical sourcing. Patchouli Essential Oil Deep, earthy, musky essential oil from patchouli leaves. Long-lasting base note in perfumery; improves dramatically with age. Peppermint Essential Oil Cooling, stimulating, antimicrobial essential oil from peppermint leaf. Used in foot, scalp, lip, and oral-care products for the menthol-driven cooling effect. Petitgrain Essential Oil Fresh, woody-floral oil from bitter orange leaves — the affordable alternative to neroli with excellent safety and versatility. Pine Essential Oil Fresh, forest-resinous middle note from Scots pine. Good for muscle rubs and men's products, but oxidizes quickly — use within one year. Plai Essential Oil Thai ginger relative with powerful anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties. A staple of Thai massage tradition, featuring the unique compound DMPBD. Body use only. Ravintsara Essential Oil Fresh, eucalyptus-like oil from Madagascar with powerful respiratory support — widely considered the safest and most effective antiviral essential oil. Rhododendron Essential Oil Steam-distilled essential oil from the flowers and leaves of a high-altitude Himalayan dwarf rhododendron. Pinene-rich aromatic with antioxidant and skin-calming positioning. Rosalina Essential Oil Soft, floral-camphoraceous Australian oil — antimicrobial like tea tree but dramatically gentler, making it excellent for children's products and sensitive skin. Rose Otto Essential Oil Steam-distilled essential oil from Rosa damascena petals. Among the most expensive essential oils in the world. Premium skincare and perfumery use. Rosemary Essential Oil Herbal, stimulating essential oil from rosemary leaves. Workhorse hair-growth and scalp tonic, with multiple chemotypes for different uses. Sandalwood Essential Oil Soft, creamy, woody essential oil from sandalwood heartwood. Premium base note in perfumery; sustainability is a critical consideration. Spearmint Essential Oil Sweet, mild mint essential oil from spearmint leaves. Gentler than peppermint; safer for face products, children, and pregnancy. Spikenard Essential Oil Ancient, earthy, deeply grounding oil from the Himalayas. Valued for skin regeneration and calming effects since biblical times. CITES-listed — sustainability matters. Star Anise Essential Oil Sweet, warm, licorice-scented oil dominated by trans-anethole — estrogenic, restricted for face use, and requiring careful dosing and safety awareness. Sweet Orange Essential Oil Cold-pressed or distilled essential oil from sweet orange peel. Bright citrus aromatic used widely in cosmetics; cold-pressed and folded versions behave differently regarding phototoxicity. Tea Tree Essential Oil Workhorse antimicrobial essential oil from Australian native Melaleuca alternifolia. Backbone of many acne, dandruff, and antifungal formulations. Thyme Essential Oil Powerful antimicrobial essential oil from thyme leaves. Multiple chemotypes with very different sensitisation profiles; chemotype specification is essential. Turmeric Essential Oil Warm, earthy, spicy-woody oil with anti-inflammatory and skin-brightening properties — use conservatively due to staining potential and debated phototoxicity. Vetiver Essential Oil Thick, deep, earthy essential oil from vetiver grass roots. Premium base note and natural fixative; one of the longest-lasting scents in perfumery. Wintergreen Essential Oil Almost pure methyl salicylate (>96%). Powerful topical analgesic with serious toxicity risk. Body use only, never for children, strict dilution required. Ylang Ylang Essential Oil Heady, sweet, exotic floral essential oil from Cananga odorata flowers. Sold in five distillation fractions (Extra, I, II, III, Complete), each with different scent profile and price. Yuzu Essential Oil Japanese citrus with a bright, complex, tart-floral character — more nuanced than lemon or orange. Available cold-pressed (mildly phototoxic) or distilled (non-phototoxic).
Exfoliant (12)
Almond Meal Finely ground sweet almonds. Soft food-grade scrub with mild emollient bonus. A classic gentle exfoliant. Apricot Kernel Powder Ground apricot pit. Mid-strength mechanical exfoliant for body and (cautious) face scrubs. Brazil Nut Shell Powder A natural, biodegradable physical exfoliant from ground brazil nut shells, offering effective scrubbing action as an eco-friendly alternative to microplastics. Cellulose Beads Plant-fiber beads. Biodegradable plastic-bead replacement with consistent, gentle scrub action. Chia Seeds Grey-speckled seeds that swell and gel in water. Visual texture, gentle scrub, and a hydration story. Coconut Shell Powder Ground coconut shell. Coconut-themed scrub particle. Biodegradable and visually distinctive. Dead Sea Salt Mineral-rich salt from the Dead Sea. Body scrubs, bath soaks, and a strong wellness brand story. Jojoba Beads Spherical jojoba-wax beads. The gentlest mechanical exfoliant. Biodegradable plastic-bead replacement. Olive Pit Powder Ground olive stone. Mediterranean-themed mid-strength scrub particle. Biodegradable agricultural byproduct. Poppy Seeds Tiny dark seeds for visual texture and gentle exfoliation. Beloved in cold-process soap. Sugar (Cosmetic Scrub) Food-grade sugar as a dissolving scrub particle. Gentle, melts during use, ideal for face and body. Walnut Shell Powder Hard, sharp-edged shell powder. Strong scrub for hands, feet, and body. Famously controversial for facial use.
Extract (31)
Arnica Extract Anti-bruise and anti-inflammatory botanical. Beloved in muscle balms and after-sport products. Calendula Extract Classic soothing botanical from marigold flowers. Calms irritation, supports wound healing, gentle for sensitive skin. Chamomile Extract Calming botanical from chamomile flowers. Anti-inflammatory, gentle, classic for sensitive and reactive skin. Cucumber Extract Cooling, hydrating botanical from cucumber fruit. Light, soothing, and gentle for sensitive and tired skin. Echinacea Extract Anti-inflammatory botanical from coneflower roots. Soothes, protects against environmental stress. Ginkgo Biloba Extract Living-fossil tree extract with flavonoids and terpene lactones. Microcirculation, antioxidant, anti-aging. Ginseng Extract Asian botanical with ginsenoside saponins. Energizing, brightening, beloved in K-beauty anti-aging. Goldenseal Root Extract Standardised extract of goldenseal root, carrying the alkaloid berberine. Used at low percentages for acne, fungal, and inflammatory skin support. Grape Skin Polyphenol Extract Standardised extract of grape skin, concentrating proanthocyanidins, anthocyanins, and resveratrol-adjacent stilbenoids. High-load antioxidant for anti-aging skincare. Grapefruit Seed Extract Liquid extract from grapefruit seeds. Widely marketed as a natural preservative — but multiple peer-reviewed studies have shown the antimicrobial activity comes from added synthetic compounds, not from grapefruit. Use as antioxidant only. Guarana Extract Amazonian seed extract carrying very high natural caffeine content (3-7%). Used in eye creams, cellulite formulas, and energising cosmetics. Hibiscus Extract Deep red AHA-rich extract from hibiscus flowers. Gentle exfoliation, brightening, and a beautiful natural colour. Horse Chestnut Extract Aescin-rich extract for capillary support, heavy legs, and under-eye dark circles. Horsetail Extract Silica-rich botanical from horsetail plant. Strengthens skin, hair, and nails through natural mineral content. Marshmallow Root Extract Mucilage-rich botanical from marshmallow root. Slippy, soothing, and conditioning for hair and skin. Matcha Extract Concentrated green tea from shade-grown leaves. Higher catechin and chlorophyll content than standard green tea. Neem Extract Strong antimicrobial botanical from neem leaves. Used in acne, scalp, and pest-control formulas. Nettle Extract Mineral-rich botanical from stinging nettle leaves. Tradition-backed for hair growth and scalp health. Oats Extract Gentle soothing botanical from oat kernels. Calms itching, reduces redness, and supports the skin barrier. Onion Extract Quercetin-rich allium extract. Famous in scar gels for the clinical evidence on raised and red scars. Papaya Extract Tropical fruit extract with papain enzymes. Gentle exfoliation and bright tropical brand story. Propolis Extract Bee-tree resin with antimicrobial and wound-healing reputation. Sticky, amber, beloved in acne products. Red Grape Extract Polyphenol blend from red grape skin and seed. Antioxidant, anti-aging, wine-and-vine brand story. Rosemary Extract Antioxidant botanical from rosemary leaves. Used for scalp health, antioxidant defence, and traditional hair-growth blends. Sage Extract Mediterranean herb extract with mild astringent, antibacterial, and oil-balancing effects. Seaweed Extract Broad term for kelp, fucus, and other marine algae extracts. Mineral-rich, hydrating, mild detox claim. St John's Wort Extract Red-pigmented wound-healing herb. Traditional anti-inflammatory and burn-care botanical. Photosensitizing. Tepezcohuite Extract Mexican bark extract famous in burn care. Wound-healing reputation since the 1980s. Niche but powerful. Turmeric Extract Bright yellow root extract with curcumin antioxidants. Brightens, calms, and adds visible natural colour. Wheatgrass Extract Powdered or liquid extract of young wheat shoots. Carries chlorophyll, enzymes, and amino acids — used in calming, anti-aging, and detox-positioned formulas. Willow Bark Extract Natural source of salicin, the plant precursor to salicylic acid. Gentle exfoliation for acne-prone skin.
Fragrance (15)
Alpha-Terpineol Fresh, clean, lilac-like terpene alcohol with a pine undertone, prized for its deodorising and fresh-floral character. Amyl Cinnamal Floral, jasmine-like aroma chemical with a powdery quality — a classic 'clean floral' note for soaps, detergents, and fine perfumery. Beta-Ionone Warm, woody-violet, powdery aroma chemical — the key molecule behind violet and orris scent in perfumery. Citronellol Sweet, fresh, rosy-citrusy terpene alcohol used as a rose modifier, deodorant active, and insect repellent ingredient. Coumarin Sweet, warm, hay-like aroma chemical with vanilla-tonka character, found naturally in tonka bean and cassia cinnamon. Ethyl Vanillin Synthetic vanilla molecule 3-4x stronger than vanillin, with a rich, creamy, caramel character prized in gourmand fragrances. Galaxolide A polycyclic synthetic musk with a clean, warm, powdery-musky scent — one of the most widely used musks in personal care and home fragrance, though increasingly scrutinized for environmental persistence. Geraniol A sweet, rosy, slightly citrusy monoterpene alcohol found naturally in palmarosa, rose, and geranium — used as a rose modifier, deodorant active, and insect repellent. Hedione The most widely used jasmine modifier in perfumery — a light, fresh, transparent jasmine note with green-citrusy facets that makes every fragrance around it bloom. Iso E Super The single most famous aromatic chemical in modern perfumery — a woody, velvety, amber-cedar base note that adds volume and radiance to virtually any composition. Limonene The single most common terpene in citrus peels — a fresh, clean, orange-like aromatic that doubles as a powerful degreasing solvent, but oxidizes rapidly and requires careful storage. Linalool One of the most ubiquitous aromatic molecules in nature — a fresh, clean, slightly floral-woody note found in lavender, basil, rosewood, and hundreds of other plants. Phenylethyl Alcohol The molecule most responsible for the scent of roses — fresh, sweet, honey-rose — with useful antimicrobial properties. Raspberry Ketone Single aroma compound responsible for the characteristic raspberry scent. Used at trace levels in fragrance, lip products, and sweet-scented cosmetics. Vanillin Single aroma compound responsible for the dominant scent of vanilla. Naturally derived (from vanilla beans, lignin, or guaiacol) or synthesised. Used at trace levels in fragrance, soap, and lip products.
Fragrance / Fixative (9)
Benzoin Resinoid Aromatic resin from Styrax trees. Sweet vanilla-balsamic scent, natural fragrance fixative, mild preservative-supporting and antioxidant action. Benzyl Benzoate A faintly sweet fixative and solvent that anchors fragrance blends, dissolves crystalline aromatics, and has a long history in pharmaceutical applications. Benzyl Salicylate Faint, sweet balsamic fixative that slows evaporation of top notes, with weak UV-absorbing properties. Jasmine Absolute The queen of perfumery — a rich, warm, intensely floral absolute solvent-extracted from jasmine blossoms. Heart-to-base note with exceptional depth. Myrrh Resinoid Aromatic resin from Commiphora trees. Deep earthy-balsamic scent, traditional skincare uses for wound care and mature skin, natural fragrance fixative. Oakmoss Absolute Earthy, mossy, damp-forest base note essential to chypre and fougère perfumery. IFRA-restricted — only atranol-removed grades are suitable for skin-safe formulation. Tobacco Absolute Rich, warm, hay-like base note with dried-fruit and leather undertones. A staple of niche and masculine perfumery, solvent-extracted from cured tobacco leaves. Vanilla Absolute Rich, warm, balsamic-sweet base note solvent-extracted from cured vanilla beans. Far more complex than synthetic vanillin, with hundreds of aromatic compounds. Violet Absolute Delicate, powdery-floral, slightly green heart-to-base note. One of the rarest and most expensive absolutes in perfumery, prized for its soft, sophisticated character.
Functional (3)
Chitosan Powder Cationic biopolymer derived from crustacean shells (and some mushroom sources). Forms a breathable, hydrating film; conditions hair; stabilises emulsions. Emulsifier An ingredient that allows water and oil to mix into a stable cream or lotion. Sodium Citrate The buffering salt of citric acid. Holds formulas steady at a target pH and chelates trace metals.
Gelling Agent (6)
Agar Agar Seaweed-derived vegan gelatin. Forms firm, brittle gels in masks, jellies, and novelty cosmetics. Carrageenan Red-seaweed polysaccharide available in three types (iota, kappa, lambda) for soft gels, firm gels, or smooth thickening. Gellan Gum Fermented polysaccharide gelling agent in two forms: high-acyl (soft, elastic) and low-acyl (firm, brittle, crystal-clear). Konjac Glucomannan Plant-derived polysaccharide from konjac root. Forms soft, springy gels for face masks, cleansing sponges, and hydrating formulas. Pectin Fruit-derived polysaccharide gel. Sets with calcium or sugar. Soft natural gels for masks and balms. Sodium Alginate Seaweed-derived gelling agent that forms cold-process gels, stabilizes bath bombs, and thickens water-based formulas.
Hair Active (3)
Capixyl (Biochanin A + Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3) A combination of a peptide and a red clover extract designed for hair density. Targets 5-alpha-reductase and dermal papilla. Procapil (Apigenin + Oleanolic Acid + Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1) A three-component hair-density blend combining a peptide with two plant flavonoids. Targets DHT, microcirculation, and follicle anchoring. Redensyl (DHQG + EGCG2 blend) A proprietary blend of two plant-derived molecules designed to activate hair-follicle stem cells. Targets the dermal papilla.
Humectant (13)
Aquaxyl Plant-sugar humectant complex that improves skin water reserves, reduces transepidermal water loss, and supports the barrier without the tack of glycerin. Betaine A sugar-beet-derived humectant. Hydrates, soothes sensitive skin, and softens the tacky feel of glycerin. Butylene Glycol A small, clear, slightly sweet humectant and solvent. Less sticky than glycerin, less drying than propylene glycol. The clear-serum workhorse. Glycerin The classic water-loving humectant that draws moisture into the skin. The most-used hydrator in cosmetic chemistry. Pentylene Glycol A humectant and solvent with mild antimicrobial activity. Silkier feel than propanediol; boosts the preservative system. Propanediol A plant-derived (corn-fermented) humectant and solvent. Less sticky than glycerin and helps dissolve extracts. Propylene Glycol Workhorse synthetic humectant and solvent. Smaller molecule than glycerin, lighter feel, also serves as a penetration enhancer for actives. Sodium Lactate Sodium salt of lactic acid. Humectant, mild exfoliant, and hardness booster for cold-process soap. Sodium PCA A potent humectant that is part of the skin's own natural moisturizing factor. Lighter than glycerin, skin-mimicking. Sorbitol Sugar-alcohol humectant. Less tacky than glycerin, common in transparent soap and gentle formulas. Trehalose Disaccharide humectant from yeast. Exceptional moisture retention with a soft, non-tacky finish. Urea A skin-mimicking humectant at low %, a gentle keratolytic at high %. Powerful but temperamental in formulation. Xylitol A sugar alcohol with humectant, prebiotic, and subtle cooling properties that hydrates skin and supports a balanced microbiome.
Humectant / Prebiotic (1)
Hydrosol (10)
Chamomile Hydrosol Steam-distilled water from chamomile flowers. Gentle, soothing, and well-tolerated by sensitive and baby skin. Cornflower Hydrosol A gentle, anti-inflammatory floral water traditionally used to soothe puffy eyes and calm sensitive or baby skin. Green Tea Hydrosol Water-distilled from green tea leaves. Mildly antioxidant and well-tolerated by all skin types. Lavender Hydrosol A gentle floral water produced during lavender steam distillation, suitable for all skin types as a toner, water-phase replacement, or calming mist. Neroli Hydrosol A delicate orange blossom floral water with toning and brightening properties, ideal for mature and sensitive skin formulas. Peppermint Hydrosol Steam-distilled water from peppermint leaves. Cooling, refreshing, and mildly stimulating for skin and scalp. Rose Hydrosol Steam-distilled water from rose petals. Gentle, aromatic, with mild astringent and soothing properties. Rosemary Hydrosol An astringent, clarifying floral water ideal for oily and acne-prone skin, hair rinses, and scalp treatments. Tea Tree Hydrosol A gentle antibacterial floral water for blemish-prone skin, offering tea tree's clarifying benefits without the intensity of the essential oil. Witch Hazel Hydrosol Astringent water from witch hazel bark and leaves. Toning and clarifying for oily and combination skin.
Hydrosol / Liquid Extract (1)
Mineral (4)
Epsom Salt A classic bath soak and scrub base that delivers magnesium to tired muscles and doubles as a gentle physical exfoliant. Magnesium Chloride A highly soluble magnesium salt used in bath soaks, magnesium sprays, and deodorants, prized for its superior transdermal magnesium delivery. Silk Powder Ultra-fine micronised silk fibroin powder. Used in mineral foundations and pressed powders for slip, soft-focus optical effects, and a silky after-feel on skin. Zeolite A natural aluminosilicate mineral with a porous molecular-sieve structure, exceptional at absorbing oil and moisture for use in deodorants, dry shampoos, and mattifying products.
Mineral / Animal-Derived (1)
Mineral / Pigment (1)
Mineral / UV Filter (2)
Oil (42)
Apricot Kernel Oil A lightweight, fast-absorbing oil from apricot pits. Mild, almost scent-free, well tolerated by sensitive and mature skin. Argan Oil A prized oil from Moroccan argan kernels, high in oleic and linoleic acid with natural tocopherols. Conditioning for skin and hair. Avocado Oil A rich, deep-green oil pressed from avocado flesh. High in oleic acid and unsaponifiables; deeply nourishing for dry and mature skin. Babassu Oil Light tropical nut oil similar to coconut. Solid below 24 C, melts on contact, mild lather in soap. Black Cumin Seed Oil A potent, dark amber oil rich in thymoquinone — a powerful anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial compound used for acne, eczema, and scalp care. Black Seed (Nigella) Oil Distinctive, spicy-scented seed oil rich in thymoquinone. Used for inflammation, scalp, and acne-prone skin. Borage Oil The highest natural source of GLA in any cosmetic oil. The active repair oil par excellence. Broccoli Seed Oil Light, fast-absorbing seed oil rich in natural erucic acid. Adds a silicone-like slip to hair and skin products. Camellia Oil A silky, oleic-rich oil from tea plant seeds. Lightweight and shine-giving; a classic Japanese hair oil with skincare credentials. Castor Oil A thick, glossy oil uniquely high in ricinoleic acid. Adds shine, lather, and slip to lip products, hair oils, and soap. Cherry Kernel Oil Light fruit seed oil with a fast-absorbing finish and a balanced linoleic-oleic profile. Great for face and hair. Coco-Caprylate A silky, dry-touch ester from coconut alcohols and caprylic acid. Light emollient that gives fast-absorbing creams a silicone-like slip. Coconut Oil A lauric-rich, semi-solid fat from coconut flesh. Comes as fragrant virgin or odorless refined (RBD); cleansing and lather-boosting in soap. Coffee Oil Pressed from roasted or green coffee beans. Caffeine-rich oil for eye creams, body firmers, and hair growth blends. Cottonseed Oil Inexpensive linoleic-rich seed oil. Light, conditioning, and useful in budget hair and body formulas. Evening Primrose Oil GLA-rich seed oil prized for irritated, mature, and hormone-affected skin. A repair-blend essential. Flaxseed Oil Extremely high in omega-3 (ALA) and powerfully anti-inflammatory — but oxidizes faster than almost any other carrier oil. Fractionated Coconut Oil Liquid clear oil split from coconut. Ultra-stable, lightweight, dry-feeling — a formulator's workhorse. Grapeseed Oil Light, fast-absorbing seed oil with a high linoleic content. A workhorse for oily and combination skin. Green Tea Seed Oil A lightweight, antioxidant-rich oil cold-pressed from tea plant seeds — absorbs quickly without a heavy residue. Hemp Seed Oil A green, grassy oil pressed from hemp seeds. Exceptionally high in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid; needs cold storage. Isoamyl Laurate Plant-derived ester with a silicone-like dry finish. A clean swap for cyclomethicone and dimethicone. Isopropyl Myristate Synthetic ester used for fast skin penetration and dry feel. Workhorse for makeup, sunscreens, and after-shave products. Jojoba Oil A liquid wax ester that mimics human sebum. Lightweight, exceptionally stable, well tolerated by all skin types. Macadamia Nut Oil Rich, oleic-heavy nut oil with a high palmitoleic content. Skin-mimicking and excellent for mature skin. Marula Oil African nut oil with a high oleic profile and natural stability. Lightweight feel, rich emollience. Meadowfoam Seed Oil Unusually stable seed oil from a Pacific Northwest flower. Long-chain fatty acids give it natural silicone-like feel. Olive Oil A classic, oleic-rich Mediterranean oil. The default soap-base oil, also useful in rich body lotions and balms. Plum Kernel Oil A light, fast-absorbing French beauty oil cold-pressed from plum pits — high in oleic acid with a natural marzipan scent. Pomegranate Seed Oil Unique seed oil rich in punicic acid. Anti-inflammatory and supportive for mature, irritated skin. Prickly Pear Seed Oil Premium cactus seed oil with an unusually high linoleic content and a fast, dry-feeling finish. Pumpkin Seed Oil Dark green, zinc-rich seed oil with a balanced fatty acid profile. Useful for hair growth and balanced face care. Raspberry Seed Oil Fruity seed oil with high natural vitamin E and a strong linoleic-linolenic profile. A face-care favourite. Rice Bran Oil Mild Asian staple oil with natural gamma-oryzanol. Light, balanced, and gentle on sensitive skin. Rosehip Oil A delicate, dry-touch oil pressed from rosehip seeds. Exceptionally high in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid; needs cold storage. Sea Buckthorn Oil Vivid orange fruit oil packed with carotenoids and omega-7. A potent skin-repair and barrier oil. Sesame Oil A balanced, mid-weight oil from sesame seeds with natural antioxidants (sesamol, sesamolin). Conditioning and surprisingly shelf-stable. Squalane A stable, saturated hydrocarbon emollient. Skin-mimicking, exceptionally light and dry-touch; the hydrogenated, shelf-stable form of squalene. Sunflower Oil An affordable, widely available carrier oil. Regular sunflower is high-linoleic and supports the skin barrier; high-oleic variants feel richer. Sweet Almond Oil A gentle, mid-weight carrier oil from sweet almonds. High in oleic and linoleic acid, well tolerated by most skin types. Tamanu Oil A dark green, woodsy-scented oil from tropical tamanu nuts. Strongly regenerative for scars and inflamed skin, with a polarizing smell. Watermelon Seed Oil Lightweight West African seed oil with a balanced fatty acid profile. Fast-absorbing and gentle.
Peptide (17)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 A neuropeptide marketed as a topical alternative to muscle-relaxing injections. Softens expression lines around the eyes and forehead. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 A four-amino-acid peptide marketed for hair growth and density. Targets the dermal papilla at the root of each follicle. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 A four-amino-acid peptide developed for the eye area. Reduces puffiness, dark circles, and crow's feet. Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1 A small peptide attached to a biotin (vitamin B7) tail. Used in scalp serums for hair density and follicle support. Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) A small naturally-occurring peptide complexed with copper. Supports wound healing, collagen synthesis, and barrier repair. Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate A small synthetic peptide modeled after a fragment of snake venom. Marketed as a topical muscle-relaxing wrinkle softener. EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) A recombinant human growth factor that signals skin cells to proliferate and repair — one of the most potent (and expensive) anti-aging peptides available. GHK-Cu (Copper Tripeptide-1) A copper-bound tripeptide with strong evidence for wound healing, collagen remodeling, and hair growth stimulation — one of the most-studied peptides in cosmetic science. Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 A six-amino-acid signal peptide developed as a refinement of the original anti-wrinkle pair. Targets fine lines and barrier proteins. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 A signal peptide modeled on a collagen fragment. Prompts skin to make more collagen, elastin, and fibronectin. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-20 A lipopeptide for hair greying support. Stimulates melanin production in hair follicles by reactivating pigment-producing cells. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (standalone) A four-amino-acid signal peptide with a calming, anti-inflammatory effect. Reduces redness, puffiness, and stress-induced skin response. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 + Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 A pair of signal peptides best known under their trade name as the original anti-wrinkle peptide blend. Targets fine lines and skin firmness. Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 A broader-spectrum signal peptide marketed as a multi-collagen booster. Targets several skin matrix proteins at once. Pea Peptide A plant-derived peptide from peas that targets skin firmness and elasticity as a vegan alternative to animal-sourced collagen boosters. sh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF) A 53-amino-acid growth factor produced via biotechnology. Powerful skin-cell signal for repair and renewal — with significant safety caveats. Tripeptide-1 A short three-amino-acid signal peptide that supports collagen and elastin production. The non-copper version of GHK.
Powder (13)
Activated Charcoal Heat-treated carbon with massive surface area. Adsorbs oil and impurities. Dramatic black colour. Arrowroot Powder Gentle starch from arrowroot tubers. Used for absorbency, slip, and silky finish in dry and emulsified products. Bamboo Powder Finely milled bamboo stem. Gentle physical exfoliant with silica-rich support for skin texture. Calamine Powder Pink zinc oxide and iron oxide blend. Classic for itchy, irritated, and inflamed skin. Calendula Powder Ground dried calendula petals. Yellow-gold visual texture for soaps, scrubs, and masks. Gentle skin support. Chamomile Powder Ground dried chamomile flowers. Pale yellow gentle visual texture for soaps, masks, and baby products. Colloidal Oats Finely milled whole oats for soothing eczema-prone, itchy, and reactive skin. Clinically validated calming agent. Cornstarch Common kitchen starch from corn. Cheap, gentle, absorbent — the workhorse of dry powders and natural deodorants. Hibiscus Powder Ground hibiscus flower. Natural fruit acids, antioxidants, and a beautiful pink-magenta colour. Lavender Powder Ground dried lavender buds. Visual texture and natural scent for soap, scrubs, and bath blends. Rice Starch Fine starch from rice grains. Silky absorbent powder ideal for sensitive skin and mineral makeup. Rosehip Powder Ground rosehip fruit. Vitamin C and beta-carotene rich. Visual texture, mild scrub, and orange tint. Silica Powder Lightweight mineral powder for mattifying, oil control, and refining the finish of powders and creams.
Powder / Absorbent (1)
Preservative (14)
Cosgard (Geogard 221) Eco-certified broad-spectrum preservative effective across pH 2-7. Sweet spot is pH 4-6; performance softens as you approach the upper limit. Dehydroacetic Acid A broad-spectrum preservative effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold. Most commonly paired with benzyl alcohol in paraben-free systems. Euxyl K 903 A broad-spectrum preservative for gentle, low-pH formulas. Paraben- and formaldehyde-free, well suited to baby and eye-area products. Geogard ECT Ecocert-approved broad-spectrum preservative for low-pH formulas. Pleasant marzipan scent and full bacteria/yeast/mould coverage. Leucidal Liquid A probiotic-style 'natural' preservative made from fermented radish. Works against bacteria, weak on mould — generally needs to be paired. Liquid Germall Plus A water-soluble broad-spectrum preservative effective against bacteria, yeast, and mould at very low percentages. Releases trace formaldehyde. Naticide A 'natural' preservative with a sweet almond-vanilla scent. Surprising INCI: labelled as Parfum because the actives are trade-secret. Optiphen A paraben- and formaldehyde-free broad-spectrum preservative blend. Phenoxyethanol for bacteria, caprylyl glycol for mould and yeast. Phenoxyethanol A broad-spectrum preservative. Strong against bacteria, weaker on mould and yeast — usually paired with a co-preservative. Plantaserve E ECOcert-compliant broad-spectrum preservative system combining benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, and glycerin. Works in a wide pH range with broad antimicrobial coverage. Plantaserve P Phenoxyethanol-based broad-spectrum preservative blended with caprylyl glycol for synergistic activity. Effective across wide pH range, paraben-free, formaldehyde-free. Sharomix A broad-spectrum acid-blend preservative for low-pH formulas. Closely related to Geogard ECT and Euxyl K 903. Sodium Benzoate Cost-friendly broad preservative that works only below pH 5. The other half of a classic eco-preservative duo. Spectrastat G A natural-positioning multifunctional preservative built on glyceryl esters. Skin-feel like a moisturiser, no halogens or formaldehyde.
Preservative / Fragrance (1)
Preservative Booster (7)
Caprylyl Glycol A small humectant and skin-conditioning glycol with strong preservative-boosting activity. The unsung half of many modern preservative blends. Ethylhexylglycerin A multifunctional preservative booster with deodorising and skin-conditioning properties, used to enhance the efficacy of primary preservative systems. Glyceryl Caprylate A multifunctional emollient that doubles as a preservative booster and mild co-emulsifier. Derived from glycerin and coconut-sourced caprylic acid. Magnolia Bark Extract A dual-purpose ingredient offering antimicrobial preservation boosting alongside anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Oil-soluble, pH-independent. Potassium Sorbate Mild preservative booster effective against yeast and mold. Common pairing with sodium benzoate. Sodium Anisate A natural-origin preservative booster from anise, effective against yeast and mold. The standard partner to sodium levulinate for broad-spectrum natural preservation. Sodium Levulinate A natural-origin preservative booster derived from levulinic acid. Effective against bacteria, but needs a partner for yeast and mold coverage.
Process (3)
Cool-down phase The stage of a recipe (around 40°C) where heat-sensitive actives, fragrance, and preservatives are added. Heat & hold Heating the water and oil phases separately to 70°C and holding for 20 minutes before emulsifying. pH A measure of acidity. Skin sits at 4.5-5.5; most leave-on products target 4.5-6.
Silicone (3)
Amodimethicone A modified silicone that carries a positive charge, letting it bond to damaged hair fibres and stay put through several washes. Cyclomethicone A volatile cyclic silicone that gives instant slip and then evaporates, leaving a powder-dry finish. The workhorse of primers and antiperspirants. Dimethicone The most widely used silicone in skincare and haircare. A clear, odourless fluid that creates a smooth, breathable, water-resistant film on skin and hair.
Solubiliser (1)
Solubilizer (3)
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Non-ionic solubilizer that dissolves essential oils and fragrances into clear, water-based products like toners, mists, and body sprays. Polysorbate 20 A gentle, water-soluble solubilizer for fragrance and light essential oils. Mildest of the polysorbates. Polysorbate 80 A water-soluble solubilizer for oils, fragrance, and oleoresin extracts. Stronger than Polysorbate 20.
Solvent (1)
Solvent / Sanitiser (1)
Specialty Ingredient (1)
Specialty Oil (1)
Surfactant (20)
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside A light non-ionic surfactant and essential-oil solubilizer. Gentle, water-thin, perfect for toners and clear cleansers. Cocamidopropyl Betaine The most common amphoteric foam booster — very close to coco betaine, slightly more refined. Coco Betaine An amphoteric secondary surfactant from coconut oil. Reduces the harshness of stronger cleansers, boosts foam, adds light viscosity. Coco Glucoside A mild non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. Creamy soft foam, well tolerated by sensitive skin and eyes. Decyl Glucoside A non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. Very mild, biodegradable, lower foam than sulfates. Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate A mild secondary surfactant that boosts foam and softens harsher primary surfactants. The gentleness booster. Lauryl Glucoside A non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. The thickest of the glucosides — gentle cleansing with body-building viscosity. SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) A mild anionic surfactant from coconut oil. Rich creamy foam, gentle on sensitive skin and baby products. SCS (Sodium Coco-Sulfate) Primary anionic cleansing surfactant from coconut fatty alcohols. Strong cleanser with high foam. SLSA (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) A mild anionic surfactant from coconut and palm oils. Big fluffy bubbles, non-irritating. Not the same as SLS. Sodium Coco Sulfate Solid coconut-derived surfactant. Strong cleansing and lather for shampoo bars and solid cleansers. Sodium Cocoyl Apple Amino Acids An exceptionally mild anionic surfactant derived from coconut and apple amino acids, producing thick creamy foam suitable for baby and sensitive-skin products. Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate An ultra-mild amino-acid surfactant from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid. Creamy soft foam, ideal for sensitive skin and baby products. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate An extremely mild anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil, beloved for syndet bars, shampoo bars, and gentle cleansers. Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate A very mild amino-acid surfactant from glutamic acid and coconut fatty acids. Hydrating, low foam, gentle on dry skin and damaged hair. Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate A mild, derived-from-coconut surfactant that produces creamy foam. Especially good for syndet bars and gentle facial cleansers. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate A mild anionic surfactant from coconut fatty acids and sarcosine — silky foam, gentle, common in toothpaste and facial cleansers. Sodium Olivamphoacetate Amphoteric surfactant derived from olive oil fatty acids. Mild cleanser, foam booster, and viscosity helper for natural-positioned wash-off products. Sulfated Castor Oil Water-dispersible castor oil modified with sulfuric acid. One of the oldest natural surfactants, used as an emulsifier for essential oils, a bath-oil base, and a mild cleansing emollient. Tea Seed Saponin A 100% plant-derived surfactant powder from tea seeds containing over 60% saponin, producing mild fluffy foam for cleansers and powder products.
Term (1)
Thickener (9)
Carbomer Synthetic polymer for clear gels and stable emulsions. The gold standard for gel formulations. Cetearyl Alcohol A blend of cetyl + stearyl alcohols. Co-emulsifier and thickener that gives lotions and conditioners a substantial, cushioned body. Cetyl Alcohol A fatty alcohol that thickens lotions and adds a silky, slippery finish. Not drying despite the name. Guar Gum Natural galactomannan thickener from guar beans. Inexpensive water-phase thickener with strong viscosity. Gum Arabic A natural water-soluble polysaccharide from African Acacia trees. Versatile film-former, emulsion stabilizer, and binder used in face masks, serums, hair styling, and mineral makeup. Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) A modified-cellulose thickener that produces crystal-clear, non-slimy gels. Cleaner skin feel than gums. Sclerotium Gum A natural fungal polysaccharide thickener. Produces silky, non-slimy gels with a smoother feel than xanthan. Stearic Acid A fatty acid co-emulsifier and thickener. Builds dense, matte textures in body butters, deodorant sticks, and rich creams. Xanthan Gum A natural fermented polysaccharide that thickens water-based formulas and stabilizes emulsions. Comes in several grades with different feels.
Vitamin (2)
Biotin Vitamin B7, sold as a white crystalline powder. Strong oral evidence for hair and nail support; topical effects are more modest but real. Vitamin B12 Water-soluble vitamin with antioxidant and skin-soothing properties. Adds a distinctive pink colour to serums and is used at very low concentrations for anti-aging and redness-reducing formulas.
Wax (19)
Beeswax Classic animal-derived wax from honeybee hives. Structures balms, salves, and lipsticks with a soft, occlusive finish. Berry Wax Soft, low-melting plant wax pressed from sumac berries. Creamy texture for balms and lipsticks. Candelilla Wax Hard vegan plant wax from the candelilla shrub. Structures lip balms and bars with a glossy, non-tacky finish. Carnauba Wax The hardest commonly used plant wax. Adds high shine and glassy structure in tiny amounts. Cetyl Palmitate A vegetable-derived wax ester that thickens, stabilises, and adds a soft, smooth feel to balms, sticks, and cream emulsions. Green Tea Wax A soft, dark green CO2 extract of green tea leaves — technically an extract, not a true wax. Combines polyphenol-driven anti-aging with emolliency and barrier repair, but its vivid colour is not UV-stable. Jasmine Wax A soft, fragrant floral wax left behind after extracting jasmine absolute. Pale yellow to brown, with a gentle jasmine scent — used as both a mild structuring agent and a natural fragrance carrier in luxury balms and solid perfumes. Jojoba Wax The hydrogenated form of jojoba oil. Sets soft, skin-mimicking balms with a near-perfect glide. Lauryl Laurate A soft, coconut-derived wax ester that gives lotions and balms a uniquely creamy, fast-melt feel. Low melting point, low drag. Myrica Fruit Wax Soft plant wax from bayberry fruit. Velvety skin feel, useful in balms and natural lipsticks. Myristyl Myristate A vegetable-derived wax ester that gives lotions a silky, expensive-feeling slip. The often-overlooked alternative to cetyl palmitate. Palmitic Acid A 16-carbon saturated fatty acid found naturally in palm and animal fats. Used as a thickener, opacifier, and structure-builder in creams and bars. Rice Bran Wax Hard plant wax from rice bran oil. Vegan beeswax-style structure with a smooth, glossy finish. Rice Wax A hard, high-gloss vegetable wax from rice bran — gives firm structure and natural sheen to lip products, balms, and styling waxes. Rose Wax Fragrant floral wax from rose absolute production. Adds natural rose scent and firm structure to balms and solid perfumes. Soy Wax A soft, creamy vegetable wax from hydrogenated soybean oil — a vegan beeswax alternative for balms, lotion bars, and solid cosmetics. Stearyl Palmitate A firm, naturally-derived wax ester that adds structure and silky glide to balms, sticks, and rich creams. Sunflower Wax Hard, high-melting plant wax dewaxed from sunflower oil. Vegan structural workhorse with a glossy finish. Tribehenin A vegetable-derived solid emollient that gives creams a silky, cushioning feel and stabilises emulsions in hot conditions.
pH Adjuster (5)
Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP) Organic amine base that raises pH and neutralizes carbomers into exceptionally clear, stable gels. Citric Acid Natural weak acid for pH adjustment, chelation, and gentle exfoliation. The most-used acid in DIY cosmetics. Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) Strong base used for liquid soap and pH adjustment. Produces soft potassium soaps and clear neutralization. Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH / Lye) Strong base. Essential for cold-process soap making and for neutralizing carbomer gels. Triethanolamine (TEA) Organic amine base used to raise pH and neutralize carbomer gels into clear, stable formulations.
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