Reference
Ingredient Encyclopedia
107 ingredients explained in plain English — what they do, how to use them, what to substitute, and the recipes that use them.
Active (17)
Allantoin A soothing, skin-conditioning ingredient that calms irritation, supports cell turnover, and is naturally derived from plants like comfrey and chamomile. Ascorbyl Glucoside A stable vitamin C derivative (sugar + ascorbic acid). Brightens and supports collagen at a gentler pH than pure ascorbic acid. Bakuchiol A plant-derived alternative to retinol. Gentle, stable, and pregnancy-friendly. NOT a true retinoid. Caffeine A water-soluble stimulant that reduces puffiness, increases microcirculation, and gives a temporary tightening effect. Citric Acid The everyday pH-down workhorse. Lowers pH in any water-based formula, works as a chelator, and at higher percentages acts as a gentle alpha-hydroxy acid. Ferulic Acid A potent antioxidant booster. Extends the activity of vitamin C and vitamin E and protects against UV damage. Glycolic Acid The smallest and strongest AHA. Deep, fast exfoliation for resilient skin and visible resurfacing. Hyaluronic Acid A humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water. Comes in different molecular weights for different depths of hydration. Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein broken into small peptides that form a light film on hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing roughness. Lactic Acid An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the surface, hydrates, and brightens. Gentler than glycolic, suited to dry and sensitive skin. Mandelic Acid The gentlest AHA. Large molecule, slow penetration, ideal for sensitive skin, darker skin tones, and acne-prone skin. Niacinamide Vitamin B3. Reduces redness, strengthens the skin barrier, regulates oil, and plays well with almost everything. Panthenol Pro-vitamin B5. Humectant + film-former that softens hair and skin and calms irritation. Retinol Vitamin A. The gold-standard anti-aging active for cell turnover and collagen. Delicate, light-sensitive, requires careful packaging. Salicylic Acid A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside pores. Effective at clearing congestion and breakouts. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) The most potent antioxidant brightener. Effective but unstable — formulate fresh and pack carefully. Vitamin E (Tocopherol) The oil-phase antioxidant. Protects oils from going rancid and supports skin against oxidative damage. NOT a preservative.
Botanical Extract (7)
Aloe Vera A classic soothing botanical from the gel inside aloe leaves. Cooling, hydrating, calming for irritated skin. Calendula The classic soothing-skin botanical. Dried flowers infuse beautifully into oil for balms and lotions; the standardised extract is used in serums and creams for sensitive and damaged skin. Centella Extract A repair-focused botanical (madecassoside, asiaticoside) that supports skin regeneration and barrier function. Comfrey Extract A traditional 'knitbone' herb. Contains natural allantoin and rosmarinic acid for soothing and skin repair. Green Tea Extract Antioxidant-rich extract (catechins, EGCG) that protects skin lipids from oxidation and calms inflammation. Licorice Extract A soothing, brightening botanical containing glabridin and glycyrrhizin. Calms redness and evens uneven tone. Rosemary Antioxidant (ROE) Oil-soluble antioxidant from rosemary leaves. Protects oils and butters from going rancid. NOT a preservative.
Butter (5)
Cocoa Butter A firm, brittle butter from cocoa beans. Excellent at sealing in moisture and giving structure to bars and balms. Kokum Butter A hard, almost odorless butter from Indian kokum seeds. Resists graininess and gives structure to bars and balms. Mango Butter A softer butter pressed from mango kernels, high in oleic and stearic acid. Absorbs faster than shea with a drier finish. Murumuru Butter A creamy, lauric-rich butter from Amazonian murumuru palm seeds. Excellent for hair and conditioning body butters. Shea Butter A rich vegetable butter from shea nuts, high in oleic and stearic acid. Deeply moisturizing and supports skin elasticity.
Chelator (3)
Disodium EDTA The workhorse chelating agent. Binds metal ions to improve formula stability, color, and preservative performance. GLDA (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate) A biodegradable amino-acid-derived chelator. Performance close to EDTA, natural-certified friendly. Sodium Phytate A plant-derived chelating agent (from rice or corn) for natural-positioning formulas. Weaker than EDTA, gentler footprint.
Clay (2)
Bentonite Clay The strongest commonly-used clay. Swells in water, pulls oil and impurities hard, and is the classic 'detox' mask ingredient — too strong for daily use on most skin. Kaolin Clay The gentlest cosmetic clay — fine, white, mildly absorbent. Suitable for sensitive and dry skin, and a clean slip agent in deodorants and pressed powders.
Emulsifier (10)
BTMS-25 Cationic conditioning emulsifier with half the actives of BTMS-50. Thicker product per gram, milder conditioning. BTMS-50 A cationic (positively charged) emulsifier that conditions hair. The default choice for DIY hair conditioners and detangling sprays. Emulsan II An Ecocert non-ionic emulsifier with a gel-cream feel. Plant-derived from glycerin, stearic acid, and citric acid. Emulsifying Wax NF A forgiving non-ionic emulsifier that produces stable, light-bodied lotions and creams. The classic beginner's wax. Glyceryl Stearate A non-ionic co-emulsifier and emollient. On its own it cannot form a stable emulsion — it always needs a partner. Do not confuse with Glyceryl Stearate SE. Glyceryl Stearate SE The self-emulsifying version of Glyceryl Stearate. Anionic, budget-friendly primary emulsifier — but needs stabilization. Lecithin A natural phospholipid emulsifier from soy or sunflower. Weak on its own — best used as a co-emulsifier or active-delivery system. Montanov 68 A plant-derived non-ionic emulsifier from sugar and fatty alcohol. Builds lamellar liquid-crystals for a cushioned, skin-mimicking texture. Olivem 1000 An olive-derived non-ionic emulsifier that builds lamellar liquid-crystal structures, giving creams a velvety, skin-mimicking feel. Ecocert. Polawax NF A branded version of the Emulsifying Wax NF standard. Same INCI as e-wax, slightly different ratio, slightly richer cream.
Functional (1)
Humectant (6)
Betaine A sugar-beet-derived humectant. Hydrates, soothes sensitive skin, and softens the tacky feel of glycerin. Glycerin The classic water-loving humectant that draws moisture into the skin. The most-used hydrator in cosmetic chemistry. Pentylene Glycol A humectant and solvent with mild antimicrobial activity. Silkier feel than propanediol; boosts the preservative system. Propanediol A plant-derived (corn-fermented) humectant and solvent. Less sticky than glycerin and helps dissolve extracts. Sodium PCA A potent humectant that is part of the skin's own natural moisturizing factor. Lighter than glycerin, skin-mimicking. Urea A skin-mimicking humectant at low %, a gentle keratolytic at high %. Powerful but temperamental in formulation.
Hydrosol (3)
Lavender Hydrosol The water from lavender essential-oil distillation. Calming herbal-floral scent, gentle on the skin, balancing for oily and acneic skin types. Rose Hydrosol The water by-product of rose essential-oil distillation — light, gently fragrant, and the most popular hydrosol in skincare. A water-phase replacement that delivers a small amount of rose's soothing actives. Witch Hazel The most popular astringent water in DIY skincare. Tightens pores, calms minor irritation, and gives toners and after-shaves their signature 'clean' feel.
Oil (16)
Apricot Kernel Oil A lightweight, fast-absorbing oil from apricot pits. Mild, almost scent-free, well tolerated by sensitive and mature skin. Argan Oil A prized oil from Moroccan argan kernels, high in oleic and linoleic acid with natural tocopherols. Conditioning for skin and hair. Avocado Oil A rich, deep-green oil pressed from avocado flesh. High in oleic acid and unsaponifiables; deeply nourishing for dry and mature skin. Camellia Oil A silky, oleic-rich oil from tea plant seeds. Lightweight and shine-giving; a classic Japanese hair oil with skincare credentials. Castor Oil A thick, glossy oil uniquely high in ricinoleic acid. Adds shine, lather, and slip to lip products, hair oils, and soap. Coco-Caprylate A silky, dry-touch ester from coconut alcohols and caprylic acid. Light emollient that gives fast-absorbing creams a silicone-like slip. Coconut Oil A lauric-rich, semi-solid fat from coconut flesh. Comes as fragrant virgin or odorless refined (RBD); cleansing and lather-boosting in soap. Hemp Seed Oil A green, grassy oil pressed from hemp seeds. Exceptionally high in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid; needs cold storage. Jojoba Oil A liquid wax ester that mimics human sebum. Lightweight, exceptionally stable, well tolerated by all skin types. Olive Oil A classic, oleic-rich Mediterranean oil. The default soap-base oil, also useful in rich body lotions and balms. Rosehip Oil A delicate, dry-touch oil pressed from rosehip seeds. Exceptionally high in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acid; needs cold storage. Sesame Oil A balanced, mid-weight oil from sesame seeds with natural antioxidants (sesamol, sesamolin). Conditioning and surprisingly shelf-stable. Squalane A stable, saturated hydrocarbon emollient. Skin-mimicking, exceptionally light and dry-touch; the hydrogenated, shelf-stable form of squalene. Sunflower Oil An affordable, widely available carrier oil. Regular sunflower is high-linoleic and supports the skin barrier; high-oleic variants feel richer. Sweet Almond Oil A gentle, mid-weight carrier oil from sweet almonds. High in oleic and linoleic acid, well tolerated by most skin types. Tamanu Oil A dark green, woodsy-scented oil from tropical tamanu nuts. Strongly regenerative for scars and inflamed skin, with a polarizing smell.
Preservative (10)
Cosgard (Geogard 221) Eco-certified broad-spectrum preservative effective across pH 2-7. Sweet spot is pH 4-6; performance softens as you approach the upper limit. Euxyl K 903 A broad-spectrum preservative for gentle, low-pH formulas. Paraben- and formaldehyde-free, well suited to baby and eye-area products. Geogard ECT Ecocert-approved broad-spectrum preservative for low-pH formulas. Pleasant marzipan scent and full bacteria/yeast/mould coverage. Leucidal Liquid A probiotic-style 'natural' preservative made from fermented radish. Works against bacteria, weak on mould — generally needs to be paired. Liquid Germall Plus A water-soluble broad-spectrum preservative effective against bacteria, yeast, and mould at very low percentages. Releases trace formaldehyde. Naticide A 'natural' preservative with a sweet almond-vanilla scent. Surprising INCI: labelled as Parfum because the actives are trade-secret. Optiphen A paraben- and formaldehyde-free broad-spectrum preservative blend. Phenoxyethanol for bacteria, caprylyl glycol for mould and yeast. Phenoxyethanol A broad-spectrum preservative. Strong against bacteria, weaker on mould and yeast — usually paired with a co-preservative. Sharomix A broad-spectrum acid-blend preservative for low-pH formulas. Closely related to Geogard ECT and Euxyl K 903. Spectrastat G A natural-positioning multifunctional preservative built on glyceryl esters. Skin-feel like a moisturiser, no halogens or formaldehyde.
Process (3)
Cool-down phase The stage of a recipe (around 40°C) where heat-sensitive actives, fragrance, and preservatives are added. Heat & hold Heating the water and oil phases separately to 70°C and holding for 20 minutes before emulsifying. pH A measure of acidity. Skin sits at 4.5-5.5; most leave-on products target 4.5-6.
Solubilizer (2)
Surfactant (12)
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside A light non-ionic surfactant and essential-oil solubilizer. Gentle, water-thin, perfect for toners and clear cleansers. Cocamidopropyl Betaine The most common amphoteric foam booster — very close to coco betaine, slightly more refined. Coco Betaine An amphoteric secondary surfactant from coconut oil. Reduces the harshness of stronger cleansers, boosts foam, adds light viscosity. Coco Glucoside A mild non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. Creamy soft foam, well tolerated by sensitive skin and eyes. Decyl Glucoside A non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. Very mild, biodegradable, lower foam than sulfates. Lauryl Glucoside A non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. The thickest of the glucosides — gentle cleansing with body-building viscosity. SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) A mild anionic surfactant from coconut oil. Rich creamy foam, gentle on sensitive skin and baby products. SCS (Sodium Coco-Sulfate) Primary anionic cleansing surfactant from coconut fatty alcohols. Strong cleanser with high foam. SLSA (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) A mild anionic surfactant from coconut and palm oils. Big fluffy bubbles, non-irritating. Not the same as SLS. Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate An ultra-mild amino-acid surfactant from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid. Creamy soft foam, ideal for sensitive skin and baby products. Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate A very mild amino-acid surfactant from glutamic acid and coconut fatty acids. Hydrating, low foam, gentle on dry skin and damaged hair. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate A mild anionic surfactant from coconut fatty acids and sarcosine — silky foam, gentle, common in toothpaste and facial cleansers.
Term (1)
Thickener (6)
Cetearyl Alcohol A blend of cetyl + stearyl alcohols. Co-emulsifier and thickener that gives lotions and conditioners a substantial, cushioned body. Cetyl Alcohol A fatty alcohol that thickens lotions and adds a silky, slippery finish. Not drying despite the name. Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) A modified-cellulose thickener that produces crystal-clear, non-slimy gels. Cleaner skin feel than gums. Sclerotium Gum A natural fungal polysaccharide thickener. Produces silky, non-slimy gels with a smoother feel than xanthan. Stearic Acid A fatty acid co-emulsifier and thickener. Builds dense, matte textures in body butters, deodorant sticks, and rich creams. Xanthan Gum A natural fermented polysaccharide that thickens water-based formulas and stabilizes emulsions. Comes in several grades with different feels.
Wax (3)
Beeswax The classic occlusive wax — adds firmness, holds moisture in, and gives lip balms and lotion bars their structure. Yellow has a honey-like scent; white is bleached and odour-neutral. Candelilla Wax The go-to vegan beeswax substitute — harder than beeswax, so you need about 25-30% less. Comes from the candelilla shrub of northern Mexico. Carnauba Wax The hardest natural wax — a tiny amount goes a long way. Used at 1-5% for shape and gloss in lipsticks, mascara, and high-shine balms.