Nettle Extract
INCI: Urtica Dioica Extract
Mineral-rich botanical from stinging nettle leaves. Tradition-backed for hair growth and scalp health.
Overview
Nettle extract is made from the leaves and sometimes the roots of the stinging nettle plant (Urtica dioica). Once harvested and dried, the plant loses its sting — and what remains is a chemistry-rich plant material used in traditional medicine and skincare for centuries.
The active fraction includes flavonoids (especially quercetin and kaempferol), chlorophyll, silica, plant sterols, and a range of trace minerals (iron, magnesium, calcium). Nettle is also studied for its content of beta-sitosterol, a phytosterol that has been linked to anti-androgenic effects relevant to hair loss.
Forms in DIY supply:
- Glycerin or water extract: the most common, water-soluble.
- Powdered leaf: for masks, soaps, and hair rinses.
- Concentrated nettle root extract: higher beta-sitosterol content, used in hair-growth blends.
Shelf life: 1-2 years for glycerin extracts stored cool and dark.
It is one of the most popular “hair growth” botanicals in DIY and natural haircare, with a real (if modest) chemistry backing the tradition.
What it does in a formula
The flavonoids contribute antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action. The minerals (especially silica) provide a structural boost relevant to hair and skin surface health. The plant sterols (in root extract especially) have been studied for modulation of dihydrotestosterone (DHT), which is implicated in male and female pattern hair loss.
On the scalp, nettle extract acts as a gentle anti-inflammatory and circulatory stimulant. The effect on actual hair growth in topical formulations is modest but real over months of consistent use, especially when paired with other actives (caffeine, peppermint, rosemary).
On skin it contributes mild antioxidant and astringent effects. Less famous on skin than on scalp.
How to use
Add to the water phase. Tolerates heat-and-hold to 80 C.
Usage rates by product type (glycerin extract):
- Hair growth scalp serums: 3-10%
- Shampoos (scalp health): 2-5%
- Conditioners (scalp positioning): 2-5%
- Hair masks: 2-5%
- Face toners (oily skin): 2-5%
- Body washes (clarifying): 2-5%
For powdered leaf: pre-infuse 1-2% in your water phase for 1-2 hours, strain, and use as your water phase. Or add directly to clay masks at 1-3%.
Best for / Worst for
Best for: hair growth scalp serums, anti-shedding hair products, oily and combination scalp formulas, traditional herbal positioning, clarifying toners.
Worst for: oil-only formulas (water-soluble), light face creams where the herbal scent is wrong, formulas where you want a strong heroic active rather than a traditional supporting botanical.
Common pitfalls
Expecting fast hair growth results. Topical nettle is a modest contributor to a hair-growth formula. Consistent daily use over 3-6 months may show visible benefit, especially paired with other actives. It is not a 4-week miracle.
Pregnancy caution. Some traditional sources caution against nettle root in pregnancy. Leaf extract is generally considered safer. Check current guidance if formulating for pregnant customers.
Sourcing variability. Wild-harvested and cultivated nettle extracts vary in active content. Buy from suppliers who can provide a COA.
Substitutes
- Horsetail extract — silica-rich, similar mineral-positioning.
- Burdock root extract — different chemistry, similar hair-growth tradition.
- Saw palmetto extract — concentrated anti-androgenic positioning.
- Rosemary extract — different chemistry, similar hair-stimulating tradition.