Solid Conditioner Bar Naturally Colored
| Phase | Ingredient | Percent (%) | Weight (g) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phase A | BTMS50 | 35 | 35 |
| Cetyl alcohol | 15 | 15 | |
| Stearic acid | 5 | 5 | |
| Myrica wax | 5.7 | 5.7 | |
| Kokum butter | 17 | 17 | |
| Argan oil infused with alkanet root powder | 14 | 14 | |
| Phase B | Glycerin | 2 | 2 |
| Citric acid | 0.3 | 0.3 | |
| Rice protein | 1 | 1 | |
| VEGELURON ® ECO or Isoamyl laurate | 1 | 1 | |
| Nettle extract | 1 | 1 | |
| Fragrance | 2 | 2 | |
| Preservative | 1 | 1 |
This recipe is very similar to the cocoa butter solid conditioner bar, which is colored with mica powder.
This time I wanted to color my conditioner bar with a natural color , so I infused argan oil with alkanet root powder. Alkanet root powder has a red-purple color. If you want blue color you can infuse oils with indigo powder. To learn more about oil infusions, please click here.
Let's go quickly on the rest of the ingredients in this recipe. You'll find alternatives in the notes section below.
For the conditioning agent, we will need a cationic surfactant, I'm using BTMS50, but in the notes below, you can find alternatives. BTMS could be hard to melt sometimes. You can grind it into powder before adding it to the beaker. As a powder, it will melt quickly and easily.
Cetyl alcohol has moisturizing properties. It helps smooth the hair and gives it a silky finish.
Stearic acid coats the hair shaft giving the hair extra conditioning properties. It also helps harden the bar and works as a co-emulsifier with our primary emulsifier, the BTMS.
Myrica fruit wax reduces stickiness and helps to smooth the hair and brush; it also adds shine to the hair.
Phase B is a combination of fragrance, preservative and active ingredients. You can use the active ingredients you prefer. Alternatives will be in the notes section.
Once you make your bar, you can use it as soon as it's solidified. If you want your bar to last longer, make sure to let it dry in between uses.
To use the conditioner bar, you will need to wet your hair and glide the bar onto the hair. You will see the white conditioning cream on your hair. Leave it on the hair for a couple of minutes, and then rinse it.
This recipe is for 100g, which makes two small round conditioner bars. Please use the calculator to adjust the amount according to the amount you want to make.
Method:
- In a heat-resistance beaker, place phase A ingredients.
- Place phase A into a double boiler on medium heat to melt all ingredients.
- Meanwhile, prepare phase B. In a different container, add all ingredients from phase B.
- Once phase A is melted, remove it from the heat. Let phase A cool down. Since some phase B ingredients are heat sensitive, we want to add them after phase A has cooled down.
- Add phase B and stir to combine.
- Pour into silicone molds and let the bars cool down completely and solidify.
- You can unmold the conditioner bars once solidified.
- The bars are ready to be used.
Notes:
BTMS50 is an emulsifying and conditioning agent. It is plant-based. The INCI is Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol. You can replace it with Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI Name: Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) or Emulsense HC (INCI Name: Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (and) Brassica Alcohol) in case you choose Emulsense™ HC, you will probably need to raise the PH, and it is only compatible with arginine for adjusting the pH. Check this post on how to adjust PH.
You can replace the kokum butter with mango butter or shea butter.
You can swap the myrica wax with berry wax.
You can replace the infused argan oil with jojoba oil, broccoli seed oil, fractionated coconut oil or any carrier oil you like for your hair products.
You can replace the rice protein with wheat protein or DL-panthenol.
You can replace the nettle extract with Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract or any extract you use for your hair products.
VEGELURON ® ECO is a natural alternative to silicones. You can skip this ingredient and add 1g of glycerin or use coco-caprylate (very light natural ester and emollient) or Isoamyl laurate (plant-based ester oil). Isoamyl laurate acts as a detangler and adds shine to the hair. It's also considered a natural alternative to silicone.
I have used fragrance oil. If you are using essential oils, please use skin-safe essential oils and the recommended doses.
For my preservative, I like to use cosgard because it can be used in higher temperatures. If you use different preservatives, check the supplier instructions and use them accordingly.