Lemongrass Essential Oil

Overview

Lemongrass essential oil is steam-distilled from the leaves of lemongrass. Two commercial species:

• East Indian (Cymbopogon flexuosus) — sharper, higher citral content, the cosmetic standard.
• West Indian (Cymbopogon citratus) — softer character, also commonly available.

The chemistry is dominated by citral — actually a mixture of two isomers (geranial and neral) — at 70-85%. Citral is responsible for both the intense lemony scent and the cosmetic activity, including strong antimicrobial action.

Cosmetically, lemongrass is used in deodorants, refreshing body washes, foot products, soap, and outdoor body sprays. It pairs well with citronella for insect-repellent applications.

The strong citral content also makes lemongrass a notable sensitiser at higher concentrations — strict adherence to maximum usage rates is important.

Shelf life is 2 years stored cool, dark, and tightly capped.

What it does in a formula

• Strong antimicrobial — broad activity against bacteria and yeast; useful in deodorants and washes.
• Insect repellent — citral has documented insect-deterrent activity.
• Sharp lemony scent — clean, bright, refreshing character.
• Mood-uplifting — fresh, energising aromatherapy.
• Anti-inflammatory — modest support for inflamed skin (at low concentrations).

How to use

Add in cool-down. Pre-dilute in carrier oil. Patch-test rigorously.

Usage rates:

• Deodorants: 0.5-0.7%
• Body washes (refreshing): 0.5-1.5%
• Foot products: 0.5-0.7%
• Soap (cold-process): 2-4%
• Insect-repellent body sprays: 1-3% (paired with citronella, lavender)
• Hair products (oily scalp): 0.3-0.7%

Best for / Worst for

Best for: deodorants, refreshing body and foot washes, insect-repellent sprays, men’s grooming with fresh-citrus positioning, summer-themed cosmetics.

Worst for: facial skincare (citral sensitisation risk), sensitive skin, hyperpigmentation-prone skin (citral may worsen), pregnancy in the first trimester, eye-area products.

Common pitfalls

Citral sensitisation. Citral is on the EU allergen list and is one of the more potent natural-fragrance sensitisers. Strict adherence to usage limits — 0.7% in leave-on per IFRA — is important. Always patch-test.

Allergen labelling. Citral, geraniol, and limonene may need EU declaration.

Pregnancy. Many aromatherapy sources flag lemongrass for first-trimester avoidance.

Glass damage. Citral can react with some plastics and rubber over time. Store in glass with intact PE-lined caps; use glass droppers and bottles for finished formulas.

Wrong species. East Indian (C. flexuosus) and West Indian (C. citratus) are both lemongrass but slightly different chemistry. East Indian is the cosmetic standard.

Substitutes

• Citronella EO — fellow Cymbopogon, different chemistry, more insect-deterrent.
• Lemon Verbena EO — fellow citral-rich, more delicate.
• Litsea Cubeba (May Chang) EO — fellow citral-rich, fresher character.
• Lemon EO — different chemistry (limonene), fresher and brighter.
• Citral isolate — pure compound, easier dosing.