Licorice Extract

Overview

Licorice root extract comes from the dried root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, a plant that has been used in traditional medicine across China, India, and the Mediterranean for thousands of years. In skincare it has earned its place because of two well-characterized actives that pull in different but complementary directions: glabridin (a polyphenol that inhibits melanin production) and glycyrrhizin (a saponin with strong anti-inflammatory activity).

Cosmetic-grade licorice extract is sold most often as a glycerin-based liquid (the glycerin acts as the extraction solvent and the carrier). Less commonly, it comes as a propanediol-based or water-glycol blend. Powder extracts also exist, but they need to be redissolved before use. The “active content” varies enormously between suppliers — a cheap licorice extract may be 0.1% glabridin, a premium one 4-10%. Read the technical data sheet.

What it does in a formula

Primary roles:

• Anti-inflammatory and soothing — glycyrrhizin and its derivative dipotassium glycyrrhizate calm redness, reduce reactivity, and ease post-acne inflammation
• Brightening — glabridin inhibits tyrosinase (the enzyme that produces melanin) and helps fade sun spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation over 8-12 weeks of consistent use
• Antioxidant — the polyphenol content protects against free-radical damage

Secondary roles: pairs well with stronger actives (vitamin C, niacinamide, retinol, acids) to dampen irritation while still adding its own benefit.

How to use

Add to the cool-down phase, below 40°C. The glabridin and glycyrrhizin can degrade at sustained high heat.

Usage range: 1-5% of the extract liquid. If you have a high-glabridin premium extract (4%+ active), you can go lower (0.5-2%). For commodity glycerin-based extracts, 2-5% is the practical range.

pH range: stable across 4-7. Compatible with low-pH acid formulas at 3.5-4 for short-contact uses (toners).

It is fully water-miscible and will not destabilize emulsions. It does add a faint amber tint to formulas — expect off-white serums and pale-yellow toners. The smell is mildly sweet and herbal.

Best for / Worst for

Best for: hyperpigmentation, melasma, post-acne marks, reactive or rosacea-prone skin, sun-damaged skin, scalp products for irritated scalps, eye-area brightening serums (the soothing properties are gentle enough for the under-eye).

Worst for: pure anhydrous balms (it is water-soluble), formulas that need to stay completely clear (the tint shows up), people with a confirmed licorice allergy (rare but exists).

Common pitfalls

Using a low-grade extract and expecting visible brightening. The 0.1%-glabridin “natural-positioning” extracts are nice mild soothers but do not produce visible tone change. For real fading effects, source a higher-active extract or use an isolated glabridin-rich version.

Adding it to the heated water phase. Heat reduces the active polyphenol content. Cool-down only.

Skipping the active percentage check. Two extracts labeled “licorice extract” can vary 50x in active content. Always read the spec sheet.

Combining at very high % in oral or scalp products. Licorice can have mild hormone-like effects when ingested in large amounts; this is not a concern in topical leave-on skincare at cosmetic percentages, but worth knowing if you’re scaling up.

Substitutes

• Niacinamide — strong brightener and barrier-support, very different mechanism. Often layered with licorice for compounded effect.
• Alpha-arbutin — direct tyrosinase inhibitor, more potent on pigmentation alone.
• Tranexamic acid — strong on pigmentation, especially melasma. Less soothing.
• Centella asiatica extract — different soothing botanical with overlapping anti-inflammatory benefits.
• Bisabolol — oil-soluble soothing alternative for anhydrous balms.