Centella Extract

Overview

Centella asiatica — also known as gotu kola, cica, or tiger grass — is a small ground-covering herb native to wetlands in Asia. It has a long history in Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine as a wound-healing herb. Modern dermatology has caught up: there is genuine clinical research showing it accelerates wound healing, reduces post-procedure inflammation, and supports collagen synthesis.

The plant contains four key triterpenoid compounds: asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. Together these are sometimes labeled “TECA” (total triterpenic extract of centella asiatica). The “cica creams” and “tiger grass” K-beauty products that took over the soothing-skincare aisle in 2020 all draw their reputation from this molecular family.

Cosmetic-grade centella extract is most often sold as a glycerin- or propanediol-based liquid, sometimes as a powder. Quality varies wildly — a premium TECA extract may contain 30-50% concentrated triterpenes, a commodity glycerin extract closer to 0.1%. Read the data sheet.

What it does in a formula

Primary roles:

• Wound-healing and barrier-supportive — accelerates closure of minor abrasions, post-procedure redness, and inflamed acne lesions
• Anti-inflammatory — calms reactive, rosacea-prone, and post-acid-treatment skin
• Collagen-supportive — the triterpenes stimulate fibroblast activity and visible firming over weeks
• Antioxidant — protects against UV-induced free radicals

Secondary roles: stretch-mark prevention (the historical use of centella in maternity products is the basis for the entire “Trofolastin” / “Bio-Oil” category), scar-fading support, and post-laser or post-microneedling aftercare.

How to use

Add to the cool-down phase, below 40°C. The triterpenes are heat-sensitive and prolonged high heat reduces their activity.

Usage range: 1-3% of the extract liquid. For a high-TECA extract (10%+ triterpenes), go lower (0.3-1%). For commodity glycerin extracts, 2-3% is the practical range. There is also pure isolated madecassoside available — typically used at 0.5-1% in serums.

pH range: stable from 4-7. Compatible with most actives — pairs especially well with niacinamide, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides in barrier-repair formulas.

Faintly herbaceous smell, pale yellow-green tint in solution. Expect a slight color in finished products.

Best for / Worst for

Best for: post-procedure skin (laser, microneedling, peels), rosacea-prone redness, eczema-friendly formulas, post-acne marks, stretch-mark prevention, baby and toddler skincare, barrier-repair routines, after-sun gels, scalp products for irritated or itchy scalps.

Worst for: pure anhydrous balms (it is water-soluble), formulas that need to stay perfectly clear (faint tint shows), confirmed centella or apiaceae allergy (very rare).

Common pitfalls

Buying a low-grade extract and expecting clinical results. The “natural-positioning” 0.1%-active glycerin extracts are pleasant but mild. For visible repair effects, source a TECA-concentrated or madecassoside-isolated material.

Heat-processing. The triterpenes degrade above 50°C. Cool-down phase only.

Skipping the spec sheet. Two extracts labeled “centella extract” can vary 100x in active content. Always check.

Confusing centella with gotu kola tea. The plant is the same, but a kitchen-brewed tea is not standardized and not preserved — not usable in real skincare without proper cosmetic-grade processing.

Substitutes

• Allantoin — gentler, simpler soothing without the triterpene profile.
• Panthenol — overlapping wound-supportive role, different mechanism.
• Beta-glucan — soothing polysaccharide with similar barrier-support effects.
• Bisabolol — oil-soluble soothing alternative for anhydrous balms.
• Comfrey extract — botanical cousin with overlapping allantoin content but different active profile.
• Madecassoside (isolated) — the single most potent active from centella; more expensive but cleaner formulation.