Cat's Claw Extract
INCI: Uncaria Tomentosa Bark Extract
An Amazonian vine extract used traditionally for inflammation. Modest skincare actives, primarily marketed for anti-inflammatory positioning.
Overview
Cat’s claw (Uncaria tomentosa) is a woody climbing vine native to the Amazon basin. It gets its English name from the small hooked thorns on the stem that resemble cat claws. The inner bark has been used by Indigenous Amazonian communities for centuries for inflammatory and immune-related conditions.
Cosmetic extracts are made from the bark and come as a brown amber liquid in water/glycerin form. Active compounds include:
- Oxindole alkaloids — the most studied compounds, with measured immunomodulatory and anti-inflammatory activity
- Pentacyclic oxindole alkaloids (POAs) — particularly the variety used in cosmetics; these have the anti-inflammatory profile
- Quinovic acid glycosides — antioxidant compounds
- Tannins — astringent and antioxidant
The cosmetic use case is anti-inflammatory and antioxidant support, with a side benefit of the “Amazonian rainforest” marketing positioning that suits certain product ranges.
Shelf life is 12-18 months.
What it does in a formula
- Anti-inflammatory activity from oxindole alkaloids
- Antioxidant support from quinovic acid and tannins
- Mild astringent feel
- Marketing positioning for Amazonian / rainforest / indigenous-medicine product lines
It is a supporting active in anti-inflammatory and anti-aging formulas. The evidence base is more modest than for centella asiatica or niacinamide, but the traditional use and the marketing story make it useful for certain brand positioning.
How to use
Add to the cool-down phase, below 40 C.
Usage rates by product type:
- Anti-inflammatory face creams: 1-2%
- Sensitive-skin lotions: 0.5-2%
- Anti-aging serums: 1-2%
- Rainforest-themed product lines: 1-3%
Best for / Worst for
Best for: Amazonian and rainforest-themed product lines, anti-inflammatory face creams, sensitive-skin support, mature skin treatments.
Worst for: pregnancy products (cat’s claw has some immunomodulatory activity — pregnant and nursing women should consult a doctor before regular use), customers on immunosuppressants or with autoimmune conditions (the immunomodulatory effects could interact — flag for medical consultation), strict mass-market positioning where the rainforest story is not central, allergies to Rubiaceae family plants.
Common pitfalls
Pregnancy and medical caveats. Cat’s claw has measured immunomodulatory effects. Topical cosmetic use at low rates is generally considered safe but pregnant and nursing women, anyone with autoimmune conditions, anyone taking immunosuppressants, and anyone before surgery should consult a doctor before regular use.
Sourcing. Wild-harvested cat’s claw has sustainability and ethical sourcing concerns. Source from suppliers with traceable supply chains.
Confusing varieties. There are two species marketed as cat’s claw — Uncaria tomentosa and Uncaria guianensis. The pentacyclic-alkaloid type (the one with the better evidence base) is from U. tomentosa. The tetracyclic type is less well-studied.
Substitutes
- Centella asiatica (Cica) extract — better-studied anti-inflammatory with stronger evidence base.
- Niacinamide — workhorse anti-inflammatory.
- Liquorice root extract — alternative anti-inflammatory with traditional use.
- Bisabolol — concentrated calming agent.
- Acai or guarana extracts — different Amazonian-positioned actives with different mechanisms.