Extract

Tepezcohuite Extract

INCI: Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Mexican bark extract famous in burn care. Wound-healing reputation since the 1980s. Niche but powerful.

Usage rate 1-5%
Phase Water phase
Solubility Water-soluble

Overview

Tepezcohuite (Mimosa tenuiflora) is a tree native to southern Mexico and Central America. The inner bark has been used for centuries in traditional Mayan medicine for burns, wounds, and skin diseases. The ingredient came to global attention in 1984, when Mexican burn-victim survivors of a propane explosion were treated with tepezcohuite bark powder with remarkable wound-healing results. Modern research has validated parts of the traditional use.

The cosmetic-grade ingredient comes as:

  • Glycerin / propanediol extract (most common, water-soluble)
  • Powdered bark (raw, more concentrated)
  • Standardized tannin extract

The chemistry includes a complex of tannins, flavonoids, saponins, and trace alkaloids. The combined activity gives strong wound-healing, antibacterial, and skin-regeneration properties documented in modest-quality clinical studies.

In DIY cosmetics, tepezcohuite is a niche but high-value extract for:

  • Burn aftercare balms
  • Scar-fading creams
  • Wound-healing salves
  • Stretch-mark creams
  • Anti-aging “regeneration” products
  • Sensitive-skin Cica-style formulas

It is less famous globally than centella asiatica but covers similar ground, with a strong Mexican brand story.

Shelf life is 1-2 years for liquid extracts stored cool and dark.

What it does in a formula

The combined tannin, flavonoid, and saponin content delivers:

  • Wound healing — accelerates re-epithelialization in burns and minor wounds
  • Scar reduction — fades new and forming scars over 8-12 weeks
  • Antibacterial — particularly active against skin-infection bacteria
  • Anti-inflammatory — reduces redness and irritation
  • Mild astringent — from the tannin content
  • Antioxidant — modest

The mechanism is multi-pathway and not fully characterized. Most modern formulators use tepezcohuite as a wound-healing and barrier-repair supporting active.

How to use

Add to the water phase. Tolerates heat-and-hold to 80 C.

Usage rates by product type (glycerin extract):

  • Burn aftercare balms: 3-5%
  • Wound-healing salves: 3-5%
  • Scar creams: 2-5%
  • Stretch-mark creams: 2-5%
  • Anti-aging “regeneration” products: 2-3%
  • Sensitive-skin Cica creams: 2-3%
  • Tattoo aftercare: 3-5%

Best for / Worst for

Best for: burn aftercare, wound healing, scar and stretch-mark fading, Mexican / Latin American brand stories, sensitive-skin regenerative products, tattoo aftercare, post-procedure recovery.

Worst for: customers with Mimosa-family allergies (rare but real), formulas where you want a strong single visible effect (tepezcohuite is slow and supportive), broken or open wound care marketed as medical (cosmetic claims only).

Common pitfalls

Overpromising. The 1980s burn-survivor story is dramatic but the modern evidence base is modest. Stick to cosmetic claims: “supports skin recovery,” not “heals burns.”

Confusing with centella. Tepezcohuite and centella asiatica overlap in cosmetic use. Different plants, different chemistry, similar role. Both can be used in the same formula.

Pregnancy. Tepezcohuite has some folk-medicine pregnancy cautions (it has been used as an abortifacient in traditional medicine at high oral doses). Topical cosmetic exposure is much lower-risk, but informed practitioners often avoid in pregnancy products.

Source authenticity. “Tepezcohuite extract” can mean genuine bark extract or cheaper substitutes from other Mimosa species. Source certified.

Standardization. Activity varies widely across suppliers. Look for tannin-standardized grades.

Tannin staining. High-tannin extracts can darken light-coloured formulas over time.

Substitutes

  • Centella asiatica extract — overlapping role, broader evidence base.
  • Calendula extract — gentler wound-healing alternative.
  • Allantoin — pure compound for wound healing.
  • Madecassoside — isolated active from centella.
  • Aloe vera — gentler wound healing.
  • Comfrey extract — alternative folk wound-healing.