Camelina Oil

Overview

Camelina sativa, sometimes called false flax or gold-of-pleasure, is an ancient European oilseed that has come back into the spotlight as a sustainable alternative to flax and chia. The seeds are cold-pressed into a clear golden oil with a faint nutty smell.

The reason cosmetic formulators care about it: camelina is roughly 30-40% alpha-linolenic acid (the plant form of omega-3), which sits at the same level as flax seed oil. But unlike flax, camelina contains 100-150 mg of natural tocopherols (vitamin E) per 100 g, which protects the delicate omega-3 fatty acids from going rancid. That single fact — a high-omega-3 oil that does not turn fishy in two months — is what makes it formulation-worthy.

Shelf life is 12-18 months unopened, 6-9 months once opened. Store cool, dark, and topped up.

What it does in a formula

Camelina is a “dry” feeling oil despite being polyunsaturated. It sinks in fast and leaves only a soft, smooth finish — not a slick or greasy one. The fatty acid profile breaks down as roughly:

• 30-40% alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3)
• 15-22% linoleic acid (omega-6)
• 12-19% oleic acid
• 12-15% gondoic and erucic acids (the latter at very low, food-safe levels)

In skin terms: high omega-3 helps calm inflammation and supports the skin barrier. The linoleic acid is the one that strengthens the lamellar lipid structure between skin cells, which is why oils like camelina, hemp, and rosehip help with eczema and acne-prone skin alike. The trace tocopherols give it built-in antioxidant protection.

How to use

Add to the oil phase. Heat-stable enough for emulsification at 70-75 C, but treat it like a delicate oil: do not hold it at high heat longer than necessary.

Usage rates by product type:

• Facial serums (anhydrous): 5-100% (can be a primary oil)
• Face lotions and creams: 3-10%
• Body lotions: 2-8%
• Hair oils: 5-20%
• Lip products: 2-5% (some find the nutty note odd in flavoured balms)
• Balms for irritated skin: 5-15%

For night-time facial oils, camelina pairs well with rosehip (for vitamin A) and squalane (for slip and stability).

Best for / Worst for

Best for: dry, irritated, or eczema-prone skin, post-acne barrier repair, anti-redness serums, mature skin (the linoleic acid helps with rough texture), oily skin that needs barrier support without heaviness, fine hair where heavy oils sit on the strand.

Worst for: anyone wanting a completely scent-neutral oil for delicate fragrances (camelina has a mild nutty note that will show through), formulators who want a thick, “rich” feel (camelina is decidedly light).

Common pitfalls

Treating it like olive oil. It is not. Camelina is much lighter and will not give you the cushioning slip of a heavy monounsaturated oil. If you want richness, blend it with avocado or shea oil at 30-50% of the total oil phase.

Skipping antioxidant rescue. Even though camelina has natural tocopherols, adding 0.1-0.5% rosemary antioxidant or tocopherol acetate at the end of formulation extends shelf life dramatically.

Confusing it with castor oil because of the gondoic and erucic acid content. Camelina’s erucic is well below the level of concern (under 4%), and the EU and US allow it freely in cosmetics. If you are nervous, look for the high-oleic camelina cultivars, which have been bred down to under 1%.

Substitutes

• Hemp seed oil — the closest swap for the omega profile. Slightly heavier, more grassy smell, shorter shelf life.
• Chia seed oil — even higher omega-3, less stable. Use if you want the fastest barrier recovery and you can finish the product within 4-6 months.
• Sacha inchi oil — another light, high-omega seed oil with a nuttier smell.
• Rosehip oil + a stable carrier — if you want the same skin-calming feel plus extra vitamin A for scarring and pigmentation.