Process

Cool-down phase

The stage of a recipe (around 40°C) where heat-sensitive actives, fragrance, and preservatives are added.

Most lotions and creams are made by heating the water phase and oil phase separately to 70°C, combining them, then blending. Many useful ingredients — vitamins, fragrances, most preservatives — are damaged by sustained heat. The cool-down phase is when the emulsion has cooled to below 40°C (sometimes specified as below 45°C) and these delicate ingredients can be added safely.

Ingredients commonly added at cool-down:

  • Preservatives (phenoxyethanol, Cosgard, Liquid Germall Plus, Optiphen)
  • Fragrances and essential oils
  • Vitamins (panthenol, niacinamide)
  • Most botanical extracts
  • pH adjusters