Wheat Emulsifying Wax

Overview

This emulsifying wax is a pre-blended system built around a lipopeptide active — potassium palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein — combined with the more familiar fatty alcohol (cetearyl alcohol) and partial glyceride (glyceryl stearate) co-emulsifiers. The lipopeptide is a wheat-derived protein that has been chemically acylated with a palmitic acid chain, giving it a surfactant-like dual nature with a hydrophilic protein head and a lipophilic fatty tail.

The blend is supplied as white to off-white waxy pastilles or flakes that melt around 55-60 C, with a faint fatty odour. Typical composition is approximately 25-50% cetearyl alcohol, 25-50% glyceryl stearate, and 10-25% potassium palmitoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein.

Shelf life is 2-3 years stored cool and dry. The lipopeptide component is stable in the dry state and gains its functional activity once dispersed in a warm aqueous system.

What it does in a formula

The lipopeptide component organises into a liquid-crystal network at the oil-water interface, producing emulsions with unusually high oil-phase tolerance — up to about 40% oil phase in a single emulsion. That liquid-crystal structure is what gives the finished cream its smooth, structured cushion and improved long-term stability.

The wheat protein backbone of the lipopeptide also contributes a mild skin-conditioning effect, leaving a slightly silky after-feel and supporting the surface barrier. This is the soft “substantive” feel that distinguishes this emulsifier from purely structural waxes.

The blend functions as a non-ionic/anionic hybrid — the lipopeptide carries a partial negative charge from the potassium salt. This means it is compatible with most cosmetic actives but is not the best choice for strongly cationic conditioning systems.

How to use

Melt into the oil phase at 70-75 C. Combine with the heated water phase under moderate to high shear. Compatible with most cosmetic actives at pH 5-7.5. Forms stable emulsions across a broad oil-phase range.

Usage rates by product type:

• Light body lotions: 4-6%
• Medium-bodied face creams: 5-8%
• Rich face creams: 7-10%
• High oil-load creams (>30% oil phase): 8-10%
• Sun care emulsions: 5-8%
• Anti-ageing creams: 5-8%
• Hand and foot creams: 6-9%

Best for / Worst for

Best for: stable medium-to-rich emulsions, high oil-load formulas, anti-ageing and barrier-positioned creams, conditioning facial creams, sun care emulsions wanting structured liquid-crystal stability.

Worst for: wheat-allergic users or strictly gluten-free positioning, strongly cationic conditioning systems, ultra-light gel-cream textures, very low pH formulas.

Common pitfalls

Ignoring wheat allergy positioning. The hydrolysed wheat protein component retains some immunogenic potential. Formulas for wheat-allergic or coeliac users should avoid this emulsifier or call out the wheat-derived component clearly.

Insufficient mixing shear. The liquid-crystal structure forms properly only when the emulsion is mixed at sufficient shear during the hot phase combine. Gentle stirring alone can produce a less stable, less structured cream.

Under-dosing for high oil-load formulas. One of this emulsifier’s main strengths is its tolerance for high oil-phase percentages. Under-dosing (below 5%) loses that advantage and the emulsion can separate at high oil loads.

Stacking with strong cationic ingredients. The partial anionic character interacts unfavourably with strongly cationic conditioners. Use a fully non-ionic emulsifier if the formula calls for high-load cationic actives.

Substitutes

• Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60 (Polawax) — non-ionic alternative without wheat.
• Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate) — olive-derived natural alternative.
• Glyceryl Stearate SE and Sucrose Stearate — fully non-ionic alternative.
• Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol — glucoside-based natural alternative.