Lamecreme

Overview

Lamecreme is a trade name for a PEG-free, plant-derived emulsifier whose INCI is Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Stearate — a citric-acid ester of glycerin and stearic acid blended with glyceryl stearate. It is a soft, waxy solid that melts at around 60-65°C and then binds oil and water into a stable emulsion. Because it is made from fatty acids and glycerin rather than petrochemical (PEG-based) raw materials, it is a natural-positioned emulsifier; it is COSMOS-approved and derived using RSPO-certified sustainable palm.

Its standout trait is versatility. Most simple natural emulsifiers make only oil-in-water creams, but Lamecreme works both ways depending on how much water is in the formula:

• Water phase above 50% → an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion (a lighter cream or lotion that sinks in).
• Water phase below 50% → a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion (a richer, more occlusive, protective cream).

It is film-forming, leaving a light protective layer on the skin, which makes it especially comfortable on normal to dry skin. Compared with a similar glyceryl-stearate-citrate emulsifier such as Emulsan II, Lamecreme tends to produce firmer, more compact, more consistent emulsions.

What it does in a formula

Primary role (emulsification): binds oil and water into a stable cream or lotion. Choose your emulsion type by setting the water-to-oil ratio (above or below 50% water).

Secondary roles:

• Film former — leaves a light, conditioning film that helps the skin hold moisture, which is why it suits dry-skin creams.
• Consistency / texture builder — gives body and a firm, stable, compact feel; pairs well with fatty alcohols or butters for a richer cream.
• Pigment-wetting structurant in colour cosmetics — in anhydrous (waterless) creamy makeup such as cream bronzers and cream eyeshadows, it helps wet and evenly disperse mica and pigments and gives the balm a smooth, structured feel. This is the role it plays when it stands in for lecithin in a wax-based colour balm.

How to use

Add Lamecreme to the heated phase so it melts fully (it softens around 60-65°C) before emulsification. In a standard cream, melt it with the oil phase, combine the heated water and oil phases, and mix until a uniform emulsion forms; stir gently while it cools.

Usage range: 1.5-3%. Decide your emulsion type first — keep the water phase above 50% for a lighter O/W cream, or below 50% for a richer W/O cream — then dose within that range and adjust to the texture you want.

In anhydrous colour cosmetics, there is no water phase to emulsify, so it is simply melted with the waxes and oils and used to help carry and structure the pigments — acting as a consistency and pigment-wetting agent rather than a true emulsifier.

pH range: comfortable from about 5 to 7, which covers most leave-on face and body creams.

Best for / Worst for

Best for: compact, comforting creams for normal to dry skin; both light O/W lotions and rich W/O protective creams; natural / PEG-free and COSMOS-style formulating; and creamy anhydrous colour cosmetics (cream bronzer, cream eyeshadow) where you want pigment dispersion and structure.

Worst for: very light, fast-absorbing “gel-cream” textures where its film can feel too rich; ultra-high-water sprayable lotions; and anyone who prefers a completely matte, powdery finish.

Common pitfalls

Forgetting it can flip emulsion type. Whether you get an O/W or a W/O cream depends on the water level (the 50% line). If a batch feels heavier or greasier than expected, check your water-to-oil ratio.

Under-heating. It needs to melt fully (around 60-65°C) in the heated phase to work properly. Combine phases while both are hot.

Pushing the dose. It is effective at a low 1.5-3%; using much more can make the cream waxy or draggy rather than better.

Expecting a bare, powder-light skin feel. Its film-forming nature gives a conditioned, slightly richer finish — a benefit on dry skin, but not what you want if you’re after a completely dry-touch lotion.

Substitutes

• Glyceryl Stearate Citrate — the main component under its plain INCI; very close behaviour.
• Emulsan II — a similar glyceryl-stearate-citrate emulsifier; Lamecreme generally gives firmer, more compact emulsions.
• Olivem 1000 — olive-derived O/W emulsifier with a silkier, lighter, fast-absorbing feel.
• Montanov 68 — sugar-and-fatty-alcohol O/W emulsifier giving a richer, more cushioned cream.