Liposomed Keratin

Overview

Liposomed keratin is a delivery-system version of hydrolysed keratin protein. The keratin itself is a fibrous structural protein normally sourced from sheep wool or feathers, hydrolysed into smaller peptide fragments so it becomes water-soluble. In the liposomed version those peptide fragments are encapsulated inside phospholipid liposomes built from lecithin.

The full supplied product is a milky to opaque aqueous dispersion with a faint protein note, preserved with caprylyl glycol and sodium benzoate. Glycerin and sorbitol stabilise the liposome dispersion and act as secondary humectants. Xanthan gum gives a slight viscosity to prevent settling.

Shelf life is typically 12-18 months stored refrigerated or cool, away from light. Once incorporated into a finished formula the liposome system is reasonably stable across the normal cosmetic pH and temperature range, provided the cool-down rules are observed.

What it does in a formula

Hydrolysed keratin has long been used in haircare and skincare as a film-forming and substantive protein. The peptides bind to the hair shaft and to the skin surface, forming a thin protein film that improves hydration retention, smoothness, and tensile strength on damaged hair.

The liposomal delivery system is intended to improve penetration of the peptide fragments past the surface — into the upper layers of the cuticle in hair, and into the stratum corneum in skin. The phospholipid bilayers of the liposomes are structurally similar to skin lipids and fuse readily with them, releasing the protein cargo deeper than a non-encapsulated equivalent would reach.

The result, supported by supplier studies, is more measurable strengthening and smoothing per percentage of active protein used compared to plain hydrolysed keratin.

How to use

Add late in the cool-down phase, below 40 C. The liposomes are sensitive to heat, high shear, and very low pH. Mix gently rather than homogenising aggressively. Compatible with most cosmetic systems at pH 4-7.

Usage rates by product type:

• Hair masks and treatments: 5-10%
• Leave-in conditioners: 3-8%
• Anti-frizz serums: 3-5%
• Repair shampoos: 2-5%
• Face creams (barrier support): 2-5%
• Eye creams: 2-3%
• Body lotions: 2-5%
• Lash and brow serums: 3-5%

Best for / Worst for

Best for: damaged hair masks and treatments, repair-positioned leave-ins, smoothing serums, barrier-support skincare, anti-ageing formulas wanting a structural protein component, lash and brow conditioning products.

Worst for: very high-temperature processing, formulas at pH below 4 or above 7, anhydrous products (it is water-based), strongly anionic surfactant systems that can destabilise the liposomes.

Common pitfalls

Heat-damaging the liposomes. Adding liposomed keratin to a hot oil or water phase can rupture the liposomes and reduce the delivery benefit. Always add during cool-down below 40 C, after the main emulsification is complete.

Aggressive homogenisation. High-shear mixing breaks open liposomes. Gentle stirring is enough — the liposomes are already a stable dispersion.

Misreading the active percentage. The supplied product is mostly water and humectants; the hydrolysed keratin active is a small fraction of the total. Marketing the headline percentage of the supplied liquid rather than the active load can be misleading.

Stacking with high-percentage anionic surfactants. In rinse-off products the anionic surfactant can interact with the lecithin and partially disrupt the liposomes. Liposomed keratin works better in leave-on or low-surfactant formulas.

Substitutes

• Hydrolysed keratin (non-liposomed) — same protein, less penetration.
• Hydrolysed silk — alternative structural protein, lighter feel.
• Hydrolysed wheat protein — vegan film-forming alternative.
• Hydrolysed rice protein — vegan alternative with similar substantivity.