Encyclopedia

Actives

96 active ingredients explained in plain English.

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Stable, oil-friendly vitamin C derivative. Brightens, evens tone, and converts to active C in the skin. 0.5-3% 4-Butylresorcinol 4-Butylresorcinol A potent skin-brightener and tyrosinase inhibitor. Sometimes called the strongest cosmetic-grade alternative to hydroquinone. 0.1-0.5% Allantoin Allantoin A soothing, skin-conditioning ingredient that calms irritation, supports cell turnover, and is naturally derived from plants like comfrey and chamomile. 0.1-2% Alpha Arbutin Alpha-Arbutin Gentle, stable brightening active. Inhibits melanin without the irritation of hydroquinone. 0.5-2% Ascorbyl Glucoside Ascorbyl Glucoside A stable vitamin C derivative (sugar + ascorbic acid). Brightens and supports collagen at a gentler pH than pure ascorbic acid. 2-10% Ascorbyl Palmitate Ascorbyl Palmitate An older oil-soluble vitamin C ester. Inexpensive and stable in oils — but limited skin conversion and less effective than newer forms. 0.1-2% Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate An oil-soluble vitamin C ester that penetrates deeply into the skin. The most luxurious vitamin C derivative. 1-3% Astaxanthin Astaxanthin Vivid red carotenoid antioxidant from microalgae. One of the strongest known free radical scavengers. 0.01-0.5% Azelaic Acid Azelaic Acid Naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid. Multi-tasking active for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. 5-15% Bakuchiol Bakuchiol A plant-derived alternative to retinol. Gentle, stable, and pregnancy-friendly. NOT a true retinoid. 0.5-2% Beta-Glucan Beta-Glucan Polysaccharide from oats, yeast, or fungi. Soothes, hydrates, and supports skin barrier and immune response. 0.1-1% Bisabolol Bisabolol Soothing terpene alcohol from chamomile (or made synthetically). Calms redness and supports active delivery. 0.1-1% Bromelain Bromelain Proteolytic enzyme from pineapple. Sister enzyme to papain. Gentle exfoliation and anti-inflammatory bonus. 0.1-1% Caffeine Caffeine A water-soluble stimulant that reduces puffiness, increases microcirculation, and gives a temporary tightening effect. 0.5-3% Calcium Ascorbate Calcium Ascorbate A calcium salt of ascorbic acid. Buffered, gentle, and slightly more stable than sodium ascorbate, but still oxidation-prone. 1-5% Centella Titrated Extract Centella Asiatica Extract (Titrated) Standardized centella asiatica with measured asiaticoside content. The therapeutic-grade form for scar and barrier work. 0.2-2% Ceramide AP Ceramide AP An alpha-hydroxylated ceramide important for barrier organization. Complements Ceramide NP and EOP in a full barrier blend. 0.05-0.3% Ceramide Complex Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP Lipid molecules that mimic the skin's own barrier. The gold standard for repairing compromised skin. 0.05-1% Ceramide EOP Ceramide EOP A long-chain ceramide with an attached fatty acid. Acts as a 'rivet' that holds adjacent barrier lipid layers together. 0.05-0.3% Ceramide NP Ceramide NP The most abundant ceramide in human skin. Restores the barrier and reduces water loss in dry and compromised skin. 0.05-0.5% Cholesterol Cholesterol A natural skin lipid that pairs with ceramides and fatty acids to rebuild the barrier. The third leg of the barrier-lipid blend. 0.5-3% Coenzyme Q10 Ubiquinone Mitochondrial antioxidant in every human cell. Anti-aging, energizing, fragile yellow-orange powder. 0.05-1% Colloidal Oatmeal Avena Sativa Kernel Flour (Colloidal Oatmeal) Finely milled whole oat kernel recognized by the FDA as a skin protectant, used to soothe eczema, itching, and irritation. 1-3% (lotions), up to 100% (bath soaks) D-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Panthenol The pure D-isomer of pro-vitamin B5. Converts to pantothenic acid in skin — humectant, soothing, and barrier-supporting. 0.5-5% DMAE Dimethyl MEA Skin-firming choline derivative. Temporary tightening effect. Loved and debated in anti-aging skincare. 1-3% Ergothioneine Ergothioneine A rare sulfur-containing amino acid with exceptional antioxidant stability. Selective protection against mitochondrial oxidative stress. 0.05-0.5% Erythrulose Erythrulose A natural keto-sugar self-tanning agent that reacts with skin proteins more slowly than DHA, producing a more even, less orange tan. 1-5% Ferulic Acid Ferulic Acid A potent antioxidant booster. Extends the activity of vitamin C and vitamin E and protects against UV damage. 0.1-0.5% GABA Aminobutyric Acid Small amino acid neurotransmitter used topically as a surface muscle relaxant. Often positioned as a 'slow botox' alternative for expression-line smoothing. 1-5% Gluconic Acid Gluconic Acid A very gentle polyhydroxy acid. Hydrating, mild exfoliation, and a useful natural chelator alternative to EDTA. 1-10% Gluconolactone Gluconolactone The gentlest exfoliating acid. A PHA that hydrates while it resurfaces. Pregnancy-friendly territory. 3-10% Glycine Glycine The simplest amino acid. Humectant, skin-friendly, foundational building block of skin's NMF. 0.5-3% Glycolic Acid Glycolic Acid The smallest and strongest AHA. Deep, fast exfoliation for resilient skin and visible resurfacing. 1-10% Hyaluronic Acid Sodium Hyaluronate A humectant that holds up to 1000x its weight in water. Comes in different molecular weights for different depths of hydration. 0.1-2% Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract Premium African seed peptides for film-forming, conditioning, and a unique brand story. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Hemp Protein Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Protein Cleaved hemp seed peptides for film-forming, conditioning, and a clean-beauty brand story. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Cleaved jojoba seed protein for conditioning hair and skin films. Vegan and gluten-free. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Keratin Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein broken into small peptides that form a light film on hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing roughness. 1-3% Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Hydrolyzed Oat Protein Cleaved oat peptides for soft, soothing films on skin and hair. Vegan, gluten-aware, very gentle. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Pea Protein Hydrolyzed Pea Protein Cleaved pea peptides for conditioning, light film, and a clean allergen profile. Vegan, soy-free, gluten-free. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein Hydrolyzed Quinoa Pseudo-cereal peptides with a complete amino acid profile. Lightweight conditioning for hair and skin. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Vegan, gluten-free protein from rice. Conditions hair, smooths skin, and adds light film-forming action. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Silk Protein Hydrolyzed Silk Cleaved silk protein for premium hair and skin formulas. Silky film, smooth finish, lightweight conditioning. 0.5-3% Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Cleaved soy peptides for film-forming, conditioning, and a subtle firming feel. Budget-friendly and vegan. 1-5% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Cleaved wheat protein for hair and skin. Film-forming, conditioning, with mild humectant action. 1-5% Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate A modern retinoid ester that binds retinoid receptors directly. Comparable retinol-strength results with much better tolerance. 1-3% (of supplier blend) Kojic Acid Kojic Acid Tyrosinase-inhibiting brightener from fungal fermentation. Strong on pigmentation, fussy on stability. 0.5-2% L-Ascorbic Acid Ascorbic Acid The original, most potent form of vitamin C. The reference standard — but unstable, irritating at high doses, and demanding to formulate. 5-20% Lactic Acid Lactic Acid An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that exfoliates the surface, hydrates, and brightens. Gentler than glycolic, suited to dry and sensitive skin. 1-10% Linoleic Acid (Vitamin F) Linoleic Acid An essential fatty acid the body cannot make. Supports barrier, calms inflammation, and unclogs pores in acne-prone skin. 1-5% Lipoic Acid Thioctic Acid Universal antioxidant that works in both oil and water phases. Strong on free radicals, fussy with light. 0.5-2% Liposomed Keratin Aqua, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate Hydrolysed keratin protein encapsulated in lecithin liposomes for improved penetration. Used in hair-strengthening and barrier-supporting skincare formulas. 2-10% Liposomed Wheat Germ Oil Aqua, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil Wheat germ oil encapsulated in lecithin liposomes with sunflower oil and rosemary antioxidant. Delivers vitamin E and essential fatty acids deeper into skin than a plain oil application. 2-10% Liquid Sulfur PEG-30 Castor Oil, Sulfur Pre-solubilised sulfur dispersion in PEG-30 castor oil. Easier-to-formulate version of elemental sulfur for blemish-targeted leave-on and rinse-off products. 1-10% Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Stable, gentle vitamin C salt for sensitive skin. Brightens and supports collagen without the sting. 1-5% Malic Acid Malic Acid Mid-strength AHA from apples. Larger molecule than glycolic, smaller than mandelic. Gentle resurfacing and pH adjustment. 1-5% Mandelic Acid Mandelic Acid The gentlest AHA. Large molecule, slow penetration, ideal for sensitive skin, darker skin tones, and acne-prone skin. 2-10% Marine Collagen Hydrolyzed Collagen Fish-derived hydrolyzed collagen peptides. Premium humectant film for skin and hair. 1-5% Marine Elastin Hydrolyzed Elastin A film-forming protein derived from fish skin that improves skin elasticity and provides lightweight moisture retention. 1-5% Menthol Crystals Menthol Intense cooling crystals extracted from mint oils, used in lip balms, muscle rubs, foot products, and shampoos for their analgesic and decongestant properties. 0.5-5% (start low) Niacinamide Niacinamide Vitamin B3. Reduces redness, strengthens the skin barrier, regulates oil, and plays well with almost everything. 2-5% Oat Beta-Glucan Beta-Glucan A specific beta-glucan from oats with strong barrier-soothing and wound-healing data. Different from yeast beta-glucan. 0.2-3% Orchid Stem Cells Calanthe Discolor Extract Cultured plant stem cell extract from a Japanese orchid species. Positioned for anti-ageing, firmness, and elasticity claims through stimulation of skin's own structural proteins. 1-5% Ozonized Oils Ozonized Olea Europaea Fruit Oil (varies by carrier) Carrier oils treated with ozone gas to create antimicrobial ozonides — used in skin repair, acne, fungal issues, and oral care. 5-100% Panthenol Panthenol Pro-vitamin B5. Humectant + film-former that softens hair and skin and calms irritation. 1-5% Papain Papain Proteolytic enzyme from papaya. Gentle enzymatic exfoliation at neutral pH. No photosensitivity. 0.1-1% Phloretin Phloretin A potent antioxidant flavonoid from apple skins. Reinforces vitamin C's antioxidant network and helps even tone. 0.1-2% Phytic Acid Phytic Acid A gentle plant-derived acid and chelator. Mild exfoliation, brightening, and metal-ion control in one ingredient. 0.2-2% Phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine A natural skin lipid and ceramide precursor. Antibacterial, barrier-supporting, and far easier to formulate with than the ceramides themselves. 0.05-1% Pseudo-Ceramides (Sphingolipids) Cetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide (and similar) Synthetic molecules that mimic the structure and barrier function of real ceramides. Easier and cheaper to formulate with. 0.5-3% Reishi Extract Ganoderma Lucidum Extract An adaptogenic mushroom extract rich in beta-glucans and triterpenes that calms inflammation, supports the skin barrier, and provides antioxidant protection. 1-5% Resveratrol Resveratrol Polyphenol from red grape skins and Japanese knotweed. Strong antioxidant, fragile in formula, premium price. 0.1-1% Retinaldehyde (Retinal) Retinal One step closer to active retinoic acid than retinol. Faster results, better tolerance, harder to formulate. 0.05-0.1% Retinol Retinol Vitamin A. The gold-standard anti-aging active for cell turnover and collagen. Delicate, light-sensitive, requires careful packaging. 0.1-1% Retinyl Acetate Retinyl Acetate A simple, inexpensive retinyl ester. Gentler than retinol and easier to source — but milder effects. 0.1-1% Retinyl Palmitate Retinyl Palmitate The gentlest retinoid form — vitamin A bound to a fatty acid. Slow-acting, well-tolerated, and ideal for sensitive skin. 0.1-1% Retinyl Propionate Retinyl Propionate A mild retinyl ester. Gentler than retinol, faster than retinyl palmitate — a sensible middle-ground retinoid. 0.1-1% Saccharide Isomerate Saccharide Isomerate A plant-derived carbohydrate complex that mimics the natural sugars in human skin. Long-lasting hydration that binds to skin proteins. 1-5% Salicylic Acid Salicylic Acid A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside pores. Effective at clearing congestion and breakouts. 0.5-2% Sericin Protein Sericin The outer silk protein — water-binding film for premium skin and hair products. Different from silk fibroin. 0.5-3% Silk Amino Acids Hydrolyzed Silk Hydrolyzed fibroin protein from silk cocoons — a film-forming, moisture-binding ingredient that adds smoothness and sheen to both skin and hair products. 1-5% Snail Mucin Snail Secretion Filtrate Filtered secretion from garden snails, packed with glycosaminoglycans, allantoin, and copper peptides — a K-beauty staple for hydration, wound healing, and scar reduction. 3-10% Sodium Ascorbate Sodium Ascorbate A mineral salt of ascorbic acid. Gentler and more pH-friendly than the parent acid — but still less stable than the modern derivatives. 1-10% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate A stable vitamin C derivative with strong evidence for acne. Brightens, evens tone, and reduces inflammation in oily skin. 1-5% Sulfur Sulfur A keratolytic and antimicrobial element used to treat acne, dandruff, and seborrheic dermatitis in DIY skincare. 1-10% Tartaric Acid Tartaric Acid Wine-grape AHA with a soft exfoliating feel and chelating bonus. Often used in AHA blends. 1-5% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate An oil-soluble vitamin C ester with deep skin penetration. The premium oil-phase vitamin C choice. 1-3% Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate The most common stable ester form of Vitamin E used in cosmetics — resists oxidation during storage and converts to active tocopherol on the skin. 0.5-2% Tranexamic Acid Tranexamic Acid A small synthetic molecule with strong evidence for stubborn hyperpigmentation and melasma. Brightens without sun-sensitizing the skin. 2-5% Trans-Resveratrol Resveratrol The biologically active stereoisomer of resveratrol. Direct antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin firmness support. 0.1-1% Tremella Extract Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract A polysaccharide-rich mushroom extract that rivals hyaluronic acid for hydration, with a lighter, dewier skin feel. 1-5% Ubiquinol (CoQ10 reduced) Ubiquinol The reduced, active form of CoQ10. More potent and more easily used by skin cells — at a steeper price. 0.05-1% Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Ascorbic Acid The most potent antioxidant brightener. Effective but unstable — formulate fresh and pack carefully. 5-20% Vitamin E (Tocopherol) Tocopherol The oil-phase antioxidant. Protects oils from going rancid and supports skin against oxidative damage. NOT a preservative. 0.2-2% Vitamin K1 (Phytonadione) Phytonadione A fat-soluble vitamin used in cosmetics for under-eye dark circles, post-procedure bruising, and visible capillary support. 0.1-1% Zinc PCA Zinc PCA Sebum-regulating zinc salt for oily and acne-prone skin. Calms, balances, and reduces shine. 0.5-2%