Functional

Emulsifier

An ingredient that allows water and oil to mix into a stable cream or lotion.

Oil and water do not mix on their own. An emulsifier is a molecule with two ends — one that loves water, one that loves oil — that bridges the two and keeps them blended.

Without an emulsifier, a lotion will separate within hours into a layer of water and a layer of oil. With the right emulsifier (and the right percentage), the cream stays smooth and stable for months.

Common types

  • Non-ionic (no charge) — Emulsifying Wax NF, Olivem 1000, Montanov 68. Most versatile.
  • Cationic (positive charge) — BTMS-50. Conditioning, best for hair products.
  • Anionic (negative charge) — common in commercial cleansers but less in DIY skincare.

See the individual ingredient pages for usage rates and how each one behaves in a formula.

Recipes using Emulsifier