Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Overview

Caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT) is a synthesised ester made by combining glycerin with the medium-chain fatty acids caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10), which are themselves sourced mostly from coconut or palm kernel oil. The result is a pale, clear, almost odourless liquid that flows easily, oxidises very slowly, and absorbs cleanly without residue.

It is one of the most widely used cosmetic emollients in the world — the silicone-free liquid behind countless face oils, primers, foundations, lotions, cleansing oils, and lip products. It overlaps significantly with fractionated coconut oil (fractionated-coconut-oil in this encyclopedia), but the two are technically distinct:

• Fractionated coconut oil — the liquid fraction of coconut oil after the saturated solid fraction is removed. Composition is variable depending on the supplier.
• Caprylic/capric triglyceride — a synthesised ester with consistent, defined composition. Cosmetic-grade is purer and more predictable.

In practice the two are often interchangeable in DIY formulas; for precision work or commercial-grade formulation, CCT is the more reliable choice.

Shelf life is 3-5 years stored cool and dark. CCT is one of the most oxidatively stable cosmetic liquids on the market.

What it does in a formula

CCT is the all-purpose light emollient. It has no signature character of its own — no scent, no colour, no strong sensorial fingerprint — which is exactly its strength. It provides slip, glide, light emollience, and dilution without changing the personality of the formula.

Specific uses:

• Carrier for oil-soluble actives — vitamin A, retinol, vitamin E, ceramides, oil-soluble vitamin C derivatives all dissolve cleanly in CCT.
• Diluent for thick or solid oils — softens beeswax-heavy balms, brings squalane-rich serums to a manageable viscosity.
• Lightening agent in face oils — replaces a portion of heavier oils to improve absorption.
• Solubiliser for essential oils — when used at 5-10× the essential oil weight, helps disperse essential oils in anhydrous formulas.
• Base for makeup and primers — slip, glide, even foundation application.
• Cleansing oil base — light feel, easy rinse-off when paired with the right emulsifier.

How to use

Add to the oil phase. Tolerates heat-and-hold to 80 C without issue.

Usage rates by product type:

• Face oils (as part of blend): 10-50%
• Cleansing oils: 30-80%
• Anhydrous serums (silicone-free): 50-100%
• Body lotions and creams: 3-15%
• Foundation and makeup primers: 5-30%
• Lip products: 5-30%
• Massage oils: 20-50%
• Bath oils: 30-80%

For an essential oil dilution carrier, use at 5-10× the essential oil weight (e.g. 5g CCT + 0.5g essential oil for a roller-ball pre-blend).

Best for / Worst for

Best for: silicone-free formulations needing a light slip, oil-soluble active carriers, cleansing oils, makeup primers, formula softeners, essential oil dilution, premium “clean” face oils where stability matters.

Worst for: customers wanting a botanical “single ingredient” oil (CCT is processed and synthetic-feeling despite being plant-derived), heavy emollient face creams (too light to anchor), formulas where the supplier’s coconut/palm sourcing is a transparency concern.

Common pitfalls

Mistaking CCT for MCT for ingestion. Cosmetic-grade CCT and food-grade MCT oil look identical and have the same INCI. They are not always interchangeable for ingestion — food-grade is tested to different standards. Always use the right grade for the right application.

Treating it as a “natural” carrier. CCT is a synthesised ester made from natural starting materials. It is not the same as a cold-pressed oil. Customers expecting “natural single-ingredient” oils will not consider CCT to be one.

Palm-source transparency. Some CCT is made from palm kernel oil. For palm-free formulation, source CCT specifically labelled “from coconut” — most suppliers will confirm on request.

Solubility surprise. CCT is excellent at dissolving most oil-soluble actives, but a few (especially fat-soluble vitamins and some fragrance ingredients) prefer a heavier carrier. If a formula won’t dissolve, try a heavier oil before assuming the active is bad.

Confusing with fractionated coconut oil. The two are very similar and often interchangeable. The cosmetic-grade CCT spec is more consistent; the FCO spec depends on the supplier. For DIY use, treat as interchangeable; for commercial use, pick one and stick with it.

Substitutes

• Fractionated coconut oil — close equivalent, slightly less consistent spec.
• Coco caprylate (existing entry) — fellow coconut-derived ester, drier feel, lighter touch.
• Isoamyl laurate — fellow light ester, silicone-replacement positioning.
• Squalane — different chemistry, similar light dry-touch feel, more premium positioning.
• Cyclomethicone (cyclomethicone) — silicone version of the same role, even drier feel.