Augeo Clean Multi

Overview

Augeo Clean Multi is a commercial green solubiliser produced by combining bio-derived propanediol (typically from corn fermentation) with caprylic and capric fatty acids (from coconut or palm) to form a propanediol diester. The result is a clear, low-viscosity liquid with mild surfactant-like properties — strong enough to solubilise essential oils and fragrance compounds into water, but with a natural-positioned ingredient profile.

It is one of a small handful of “green” solubilisers that genuinely work as a natural alternative to PEG-based products (polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) for essential-oil and fragrance solubilisation in water-based cosmetics like room sprays, body mists, toners, and aromatherapy products.

The performance is good but not equal to polysorbate 20 or PEG-40 HCO. Augeo works best with essential oils that have lower fragrance loads and at higher ratios of solubiliser to fragrance. Heavy or resin-rich essential oils (vetiver, oakmoss, frankincense) need higher ratios or pair best with a co-solubiliser.

The liquid is clear, colourless, almost odourless, and easy to handle. It has a mild conditioning skin-feel.

Shelf life is 2+ years stored cool and dark.

What it does in a formula

The mechanism is amphiphilic — the propanediol head is water-friendly, the caprylic/capric tails are oil-friendly. Together, the molecule sits at the oil-water interface and forms small micelles that hold the essential oil dispersed in water without phase separation.

Practical uses:

• Solubilising essential oils in room sprays — at 5-10× the essential oil weight, gives clear, stable mists.
• Solubilising fragrance in body sprays and toners — same principle, slightly higher ratios for heavier scents.
• Aromatherapy diffuser blends — water-based diffuser products without precipitation.
• Eau de cologne / lighter perfumes — natural-positioned alternative to alcohol-heavy blends.
• Mild skin-feel enhancement — at lower percentages contributes a subtle conditioning sensorial effect.

It can also serve as a partial solubiliser for slightly oil-soluble actives in water-based serums.

How to use

Pre-blend with the essential oil or fragrance first, then add the blend to the water phase under good stirring.

Typical ratios of Augeo Clean Multi to fragrance:

• Light citrus and floral essential oils: 3-5× the essential oil weight
• Mid-weight essential oils (lavender, rosemary, geranium): 5-7× the essential oil weight
• Heavy or resinous essential oils (vetiver, patchouli, frankincense): 7-10× the essential oil weight

For a 1% essential oil load in a room spray, that means 3-10% Augeo Clean Multi.

Usage rates by product type:

• Room sprays: 5-10% (depending on essential oil load)
• Body mists and toners: 3-8%
• Eau de cologne and natural perfumes: 5-15%
• Diffuser refill blends: 5-15%
• Hair mists with essential oils: 3-8%

Best for / Worst for

Best for: natural-positioned room sprays, ECOcert / Cosmos-compatible aromatherapy products, body mists, toners with essential oils, eau de cologne / natural perfumes, diffuser blends.

Worst for: very heavy fragrance loads (use traditional solubilisers like polysorbate 20 or PEG-40 HCO), formulations needing a clear-water look at low solubiliser ratios (the solubilising power is lower than synthetic options), strict budget formulations (more expensive than polysorbates).

Common pitfalls

Underdosing. Augeo Clean Multi is less powerful per unit than polysorbate 20 or PEG-40 HCO. Using a 1:1 ratio of Augeo to essential oil (which works with polysorbate) will not give a clear, stable mist. Always use at least 3:1 and adjust up for heavier scents.

Heavy resinous oils. Frankincense, myrrh, vetiver, and other heavy oils need very high Augeo ratios (8-10×) or a co-solubiliser. Sometimes the right answer is to switch to a more powerful solubiliser for these specific essential oils.

Cloudiness vs separation. Augeo at a moderate ratio can give a slightly cloudy mist that is stable. This is acceptable for many natural products. For a truly clear product, increase the ratio.

Confusing with surfactants. Augeo is a solubiliser, not a true surfactant. It does not foam or clean. Don’t substitute it for decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, or any other cleansing surfactant.

Confusing brand names. Augeo Clean Multi is a specific commercial product. Generic “propanediol dicaprylate/dicaprate” is similar but performance varies between suppliers. Buy from a known supplier with documented performance data.

Substitutes

• Polysorbate 20 (polysorbate-20) — much more powerful solubiliser, not natural-positioned.
• Polysorbate 80 (polysorbate-80) — for heavier oils, not natural-positioned.
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil — workhorse solubiliser, not natural-positioned.
• Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (caprylyl-capryl-glucoside) — fellow natural-positioned solubiliser, gentler.
• Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (polyglyceryl-4-caprate) — fellow natural-positioned solubiliser, lower power.
• Sucragel (sucragel) — natural solubiliser for cleansing oils, very different chemistry.