Glyceryl Stearate SE and Sucrose Stearate

Overview

This is a pre-blended emulsifier system combining glyceryl stearate SE (a self-emulsifying form of glyceryl stearate that already contains a small amount of stearate salt for emulsification) with sucrose stearate (a non-ionic ester of sucrose and stearic acid). Both components are vegetable-derived, biodegradable, and well-tolerated even on very sensitive skin.

The blend is supplied as white to off-white waxy pastilles or flakes that melt around 55-60 C, with a faint fatty odour. The non-ionic character makes it broadly compatible across pH and with most cosmetic actives, including cationic conditioning ingredients that would destabilise anionic emulsifiers.

Shelf life is typically 2-3 years stored cool and dry. It is not light-sensitive in solid form.

What it does in a formula

The blend produces oil-in-water emulsions with a soft, light, easy-spreading skin feel. The sucrose stearate component is particularly gentle and adds a soft, almost silky cushion to the emulsion. It is the sucrose ester that drives the very low irritation potential — sucrose esters are mild enough to appear in eye-area and intimate-care formulations.

The glyceryl stearate SE component provides the main emulsification work and contributes some opacity and body to the cream. Together the two components produce emulsions that are stable but feel notably lighter than classic anionic waxes.

The final product texture is typically a soft, easy-spreading lotion or cream, not the dense whipped texture of a heavy emulsifying wax.

How to use

Melt into the oil phase at 70-75 C. Combine with the heated water phase under moderate stirring. Cool to room temperature with continued stirring. Compatible with cationic conditioning ingredients, most actives, and a broad pH range (4-9).

Usage rates by product type:

• Light body lotions: 3-5%
• Face creams (medium body): 4-6%
• Sensitive skin formulas: 3-6%
• Baby creams and lotions: 3-6%
• Eye creams: 4-6%
• Sun care emulsions: 4-8%
• After-sun and post-procedure formulas: 3-6%

Best for / Worst for

Best for: sensitive skin formulas, baby and child skincare, eye-area products, soft light creams, post-procedure or after-sun products, formulas needing cationic-conditioning compatibility.

Worst for: thick rich classic creams (the blend produces lighter textures), heavy occlusive balms, formulators looking for the dense cushion of an anionic emulsifying wax, very high oil-load emulsions.

Common pitfalls

Expecting heavy-cream viscosity. This blend tends toward lighter, softer textures. If a thick rich cream is the goal, additional thickeners (xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid) will be needed.

Skipping the heat-and-hold. Both components are waxy solids that need to be fully melted before combining. Hold the oil phase at 70-75 C for at least 15-20 minutes to ensure complete melting and even dispersion.

Treating it as identical to plain glyceryl stearate. Plain glyceryl stearate (without the SE) is not self-emulsifying and needs a co-emulsifier. This blend is self-sufficient. Do not substitute on a 1:1 basis without adjustment.

Under-dosing for high oil-phase formulas. At 3-4% use rate this blend handles oil phases up to about 20%. Heavier oil loads need 6-8% to remain stable.

Substitutes

• Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol — natural-positioned non-ionic alternative.
• Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate) — olive-based natural alternative.
• Polawax (Cetearyl Alcohol and Polysorbate 60) — older non-ionic blend.
• Sucrose stearate (alone) — primary emulsifier alternative with co-emulsifier.