DIY Cosmetica

Solid Cleanser Scrub

4 MIN READ
PhaseIngredientPercent (%)Weight (g)
Phase ASCI powder (INCI - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)40.040
Rice starch (INCI - Oryza Sativa Starch)20.020
Stearic acid4.04
Cetearyl alcohol6.06
Montanov ™ 68 (INCI - Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside)5.05
Grapeseed oil (INCI - Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil)21.221.2
Phase BCosgard (INCI - Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Aqua)0.80.8
Fragrance oil1.01
Exfoliator (Apricot pit powder)2.02
Total weight (g)

This formula is for a solid version of a body and face scrub cleanser. The scrub cleanser is easy to make, and you can change some of the ingredients I used in this formula. I used the same beaker (heat resistance one) for both phases. The solid scrub cleanser is a perfect product to take when you travel, and its double function saves time and space in the shower.


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This product is similar to the Creamy Solid Body And Face Cleanser, and if you like solid cosmetics, you can try the Solid Perfume and Balancing Gentle Solid Shampoo. If you wish to try a more paste-like face scrub, check the Face Creamy Exfoliate Cleanser.

The surfactant in this formula is SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate), a mild surfactant that can be used for the body and face for all skin types. SCI is gentle, unlike some harsher surfactants that can strip the skin of its natural moisture. It's derived from coconut oil, known for its skin-conditioning properties. SCI has excellent foaming abilities that effectively remove makeup, sunscreen, and the daily buildup of pollutants, all while being easy to rinse away and leaving no unwanted residue. SCI is non-comedogenic, meaning it won't block pores, which can lead to breakouts. SCI also has some conditioning properties, so it's a perfect surfactant for this product type.

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I used rice starch powder for its soothing effect on the skin and its ability to absorb oil (it helps to manage sebum production without over-drying the skin). Rice starch makes the cleanser smooth and gives the final product a nice, soft feel. It also gently scrubs away dead skin, helping new skin come in, which makes your skin look brighter and feel smoother. Even though it's good at soaking up extra oil, it doesn't take away important natural oils from your skin. This means it cleans without drying your skin out, which is also suitable for people with dry skin. Also, because rice starch is gentle and doesn't cause allergies, pretty much everyone can use it without having skin irritation. You can replace the rich starch with cornstarch or arrowroot powder.

If you want to try more exfoliating cleansers, check out the Face Cleanser Base With Endless Ways To Personalize, another exfoliating formula for the body is the Brightening Body Scrub.

For moisturizing and thickening, I used stearic acid and Cetearyl alcohol.

Stearic acid enhances the texture of the scrub cleanser, making it thicker and softer. Its moisturizing properties help with the overall application and feel of the final product. Cetearyl alcohol functions as a softening agent, ensuring the skin feels smooth and conditioned post-cleansing. Importantly, cetearyl alcohol is known for being gentle and non-irritating, making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. You can replace these ingredients with cetyl alcohol.

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I also added an emulsifier to this formula. I used Montanov ™ 68. Montanov™ 68 contributes to a rich and creamy texture in the scrub cleanser; Montanov™ 68 aids in forming a moisture-retaining barrier on the skin and enhances the moisturizing benefits of a product. This emulsifier also gives the final product a rich and creamy feel. You can use a different emulsifier, such as Olivem1000, Montanov ™ L, or Polawax. SOLID SCRUB3

I also used carrier oil, which I chose as grapeseed oil for this formula. Grapeseed oil is rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and vitamins E and C, offering strong antioxidant benefits. Its non-comedogenic quality ensures it doesn't block pores, making it ideal for all skin types, especially those prone to oiliness and breakouts, as it hydrates without causing acne. Despite being light in texture, grapeseed oil effectively retains moisture, ensuring the skin remains supple and not oily. With linoleic acid, it also boasts anti-inflammatory abilities, alleviating redness and calming irritated skin. Moreover, grapeseed oil's antimicrobial properties in cleansers are crucial in combating breakout-causing bacteria. You can use jojoba oil, hemp seed oil or sunflower oil instead.

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You can add mica powder for color or use an infused oil, such as alkanet, turmeric, madder root, or radix, to get a natural color. Check this post on infusing oils with the cold method.

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In phase B, the cool-down phase, I added the fragrance oil, the preservative and the exfoliator.

You can skip the fragrance oil if you want an unscented product; if you skip the fragrance oil, add the amount to the carrier oil in phase A.

If you use another preservative, follow your supplier's instructions. If you need a higher percentage of the preservative, subtract the added amount from the carrier oil.

For the exfoliator, I used olive seed powder. With its fine and soft granules, olive seed powder offers a gentle form of mechanical exfoliation, effectively sloughing off dead skin cells from the surface without the risk of micro tears that more abrasive scrubs can cause. Being a natural exfoliant, olive seed powder minimizes the likelihood of irritation or negative reactions often associated with synthetic exfoliants.

You can use other exfoliators in this formula, such as peach pit powder, almond powder, strawberry seeds, and bamboo powder (INCI -Bambusa arundinacea stem powder).

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I made another version of this cleanser scrub, combining two different exfoliators: one is coconut shell powder, and the second is strawberry seeds. This combination results in harsher exfoliating properties that are more for the body than the face.

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Use the calculator to adjust the amount you wish to make.

Method:

  1. To a heat resistance beaker, add all phase A ingredients.

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  1. Place phase A into a double boiler on medium heat to melt everything into a smooth mixture.

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  1. Remove phase A from the heat.

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  1. Add phase B ingredients and mix to combine.

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  1. Pour the scrub cleanser into a silicone mold and let it cool for a couple of hours. (Place it in the fridge to speed up the cooling process.)

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  1. Unmold the scrub cleanser.

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