DIY Cosmetica

Creamy Solid Body And Face Cleanser

3 MIN READ
PhaseIngredientPercent (%)Weight (g)
Phase ASCI (INCI - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)3030
Arrowroot powder (INCI - Maranta Arundinacea Root Powder)55
Cocoa butter (INCI - Theobroma Cacao Butter)2020
Emulsifying wax Emulsan II (INCI - Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)1616
Stearic acid33
Cetyl alcohol44
Carriel oil (Cottonseed oil - INCI - Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil)2020
Phase BVitamin E (INCI - Tocopherol / Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil)0.20.2
Preservative Cosgard (INCI - Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Aqua)0.80.8
Fragrance oil11
Total weight (g)


If you are a fan of solid cosmetics, you will love this formula. This is a solid, very creamy and silky body and face cleanser.

This solid cleanser is excellent if you are looking for a gentle, non-soap cleanser that will not dry your skin and will have a silky and smooth texture.

If you made this solid lotion bar, you would notice that this cleanser also has only oil-based ingredients that give it moisturizing and creamy properties. The added surfactant is what makes this bar a cleansing one.

Although this is an oil-based bar, you need to add a preservative because you will use this product close to water.

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In phase A, I combine the surfactant with Emulsifying wax and emollients. For my emulsifying wax, I used Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate. This emulsifying wax is derived from glucose (sugar) and stearic acid.

This emulsifying wax gives a light texture and very smooth consistency.

You can use other emulsifying waxes such as Olivem1000, lanette N (INCI - Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfat), Montanov ™ L (INCI : C14 -22 Alcohol (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside), or Montanov ™ 68 (INCI : Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside).

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Cocoa butter is one of the hardest butters, so if you use a softer butter such as shea butter or mango butter, the final bar might be too soft. You can switch the cocoa butter with kokum butter.

Cetyl alcohol also contributes to the final silky smooth texture and creates a bar that glides between your hands. If you want to swap it, you can use cetearyl alcohol.

I have used cottonseed oil as the carrier oil in this formula. Cottonseed oil is rich in fatty acids, which can help to moisturize the skin. Cottonseed oil is also relatively light and doesn't tend to clog pores.

You can use different carrier oils such as sweet almond, safflower, fractionated coconut, hazelnut, macadamia nut, sunflower, jojoba, or hemp oil. If you want to use an infused oil, check this post about infusing oils. You can use alkanet-infused oil for a light purple color in the final bar or turmeric-infused oil for a yellow-colored bar.

The arrowroot powder also helps to achieve a silky texture to the final bar. You can swap the arrowroot powder with coconut milk powder, cornstarch or tapioca powder.

I added vitamin E, preservative and fragrance oil in phase B.

If you don't have vitamin E, use jojoba oil instead or swap it for a bit more of the carrier oil you used in phase A.

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If you use different preservative types, use it according to the supplier's instructions. If you need to use a higher percentage of preservatives, reduce the added amount of the preservative from the carrier oil amount.

You can skip the fragrance oil for an unscented product. If you skip the fragrance oil, add the amount to the carrier oil. You can use essential oil instead (make sure to use skin-safe essential / fragrance oil).

If you want to color the bar with mica colors, add a pinch of color to the heated phase A and mix to incorporate the color.

When you use the bars, similar to solid soaps, let them dry between uses so they will stay firm.

Please use the calculator to adjust the amount you wish to make.

These bars are gentle and suitable for sensitive skin. They are great as a holiday gift for family and friends. Pair them with a lotion bar; they will be the perfect gift.

Method:

  1. In a heat resistance beaker, add phase A ingredients.

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  1. Give phase A a little mix and place into a double boiler to melt.

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  1. prepare phase B. Add all phase B ingredients into a different container. Set aside.

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  1. Remove phase A from the heat and stir.

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  1. Add phase B to phase A and stir to combine.

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  1. Pour into silicone molds. Let the bars solidify for 2-5 hours in the fridge or 6-8 hours at room temperature.

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  1. Unmold the bars and enjoy! Use the cleansing bars the same as you would use a solid soap bar.

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