Quick verdict
| Use case | Pick |
|---|---|
| Essential-oil room sprays / body mists | Polysorbate 20 (lighter EOs, sharper feel) |
| Heavy or resinous EOs (vetiver, patchouli, frankincense) | Polysorbate 80 (stronger solubilising power) |
| Bath products with carrier oils | Polysorbate 80 (handles fatty oils) |
| Facial toners with a touch of EO | Polysorbate 20 (cleaner skin-feel) |
| Hair conditioning sprays with silicones | Polysorbate 80 |
Why both exist
Both are polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters of fatty acids — non-ionic surfactants that act as both emulsifiers and solubilisers. The number refers to the fatty acid attached:
- Polysorbate 20 — sorbitan + lauric acid (C12). Lighter, more water-loving, gentler.
- Polysorbate 80 — sorbitan + oleic acid (C18). Heavier, more oil-loving, more powerful solubiliser.
The HLB difference: Polysorbate 20 is ~16.7; Polysorbate 80 is ~15. Both are high enough for O/W emulsions, but Polysorbate 80 dissolves heavier and more lipophilic ingredients.
When Polysorbate 20 wins
- Light essential oils — citrus, lavender, mint, rosemary at low loads.
- Facial mists and toners — lighter skin-feel, less “filmy” sensation.
- Children’s bath products — gentler skin contact than Polysorbate 80.
- Clear gels and serums — gives a clearer dispersion at low oil loads.
When Polysorbate 80 wins
- Heavy / resinous essential oils — vetiver, patchouli, frankincense, myrrh, sandalwood.
- Bath oils with fatty carrier oils — sweet almond, jojoba, olive — Polysorbate 20 won’t fully solubilise these.
- Silicone dispersion — phenyl trimethicone and other heavy silicones.
- Fragrance oils — most compounded fragrance oils contain heavy resinous components.
How to swap between them
Roughly: Polysorbate 80 is 1.5-2× more powerful per unit weight than Polysorbate 20 for solubilising heavy oils. For light oils, they perform similarly.
For an EO-in-water spray:
- Polysorbate 20: use at 3-5× the EO weight for light oils, 7-10× for heavier
- Polysorbate 80: use at 2-3× the EO weight for light oils, 4-5× for heavier
Natural / ECOcert positioning
Neither Polysorbate 20 nor Polysorbate 80 is ECOcert-approved (both are PEG-derived). For natural-positioned formulas, use:
- Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside — natural solubiliser, gentle
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate — natural, low power
- Augeo Clean Multi — green solubiliser, propanediol-based
Substitutes
- Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate — natural alternative, gentler, much less powerful.
- Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside — natural solubiliser, mild surfactant.
- PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil — strongest of the synthetic solubilisers, heavier feel.
- Sucragel — natural solubiliser specifically for cleansing oils.
→ Full ingredient page: Polysorbate 20 · Polysorbate 80