Glossary

Allantoin Active INCI: Allantoin

A soothing, skin-conditioning ingredient naturally derived from plants like comfrey and chamomile. Calms irritation and supports cell turnover. Use 0.1-2% in the heated water phase — dissolves best at around 50°C. Read more →

Argan Oil Oil INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

A rich oil from argan tree kernels, high in fatty acids and tocopherols (vitamin E). Improves elasticity and supports repair. Use 2-10% in oil phase. Read more →

Ascorbyl Glucoside Active INCI: Ascorbyl Glucoside

A stable vitamin C derivative (sugar + ascorbic acid). Brightens, supports collagen, gentler than L-Ascorbic Acid. Works at pH 5-6. Use 2-10% in water phase. Read more →

See also Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)

Betaine Humectant INCI: Betaine

A sugar-beet-derived humectant. Hydrates, soothes sensitive skin, and reduces tackiness from glycerin. Use 1-5%, water phase. Read more →

BTMS-50 Emulsifier INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene Glycol

A vegetable-derived cationic emulsifier with conditioning properties. Excellent for hair products and rich body creams. Use 4-7%. Read more →

Centella Extract Botanical Extract INCI: Centella Asiatica Extract

Repair-focused botanical (madecassoside, asiaticoside) that supports skin regeneration and barrier function. Use 1-2% in cool-down. Also helps with stretch marks and stressed scalp. Read more →

Cetearyl Alcohol Thickener INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol

A blend of cetyl + stearyl alcohols. Co-emulsifier and thickener. Use 2-5%, oil phase. Read more →

Cetyl Alcohol Thickener INCI: Cetyl Alcohol

A fatty alcohol used to thicken and stabilize emulsions. Adds slip and skin-feel. Use 1-5%, oil phase. Not drying despite the name. Read more →

Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant INCI: Cocamidopropyl Betaine

The most common amphoteric foam booster, very close to coco betaine. Stabilizes lather and softens anionic surfactants. Use 5-15%. Read more →

Coco Betaine Surfactant INCI: Coco-Betaine

An amphoteric secondary surfactant from coconut oil. Reduces the harshness of stronger cleansers like SCS, boosts foam, and adds light viscosity. Use 5-15% as a co-surfactant. Read more →

See also Cocamidopropyl BetaineSCS (Sodium Coco-Sulfate)

Coco Glucoside Surfactant INCI: Coco Glucoside

A mild non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. Creamy soft foam, well tolerated by sensitive skin and eyes. Use 5-25% in baby and facial cleansers. Read more →

Coco-Caprylate Oil INCI: Coco-Caprylate

A silky, dry-touch ester from coconut alcohols and caprylic acid. Light emollient, great for fast-absorbing creams. Use 2-8% in oil phase. Read more →

Cocoa Butter Butter INCI: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

A firm, occlusive butter from cocoa beans. Excellent at sealing in moisture, supports elasticity. Use 3-10% in oil phase. Read more →

Cool-down phase Process

The stage after emulsification (around 40°C) where heat-sensitive actives, fragrance, and preservatives are added. Read more →

Cosgard Preservative INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Aqua

An eco-certified broad-spectrum preservative effective across pH 2-7, strongest between pH 4 and 6. Use 0.6-1.0% in cool-down. Read more →

Decyl Glucoside Surfactant INCI: Decyl Glucoside

A non-ionic plant-derived surfactant. Very mild, biodegradable, lower foam than sulfates. Use 5-20% in gentle cleansers and shampoos. Read more →

Disodium EDTA Chelator INCI: Disodium EDTA

A chelating agent that binds metal ions (iron, calcium, magnesium) from water and raw materials. Improves stability, color, and preservative performance. Use 0.1-0.5%, water phase. Read more →

See also Sodium PhytateGLDA

Emulsifier Functional

An ingredient that allows water and oil to mix into a stable cream or lotion. Common types: emulsifying wax NF, BTMS-50 (cationic, conditioning), Olivem 1000, Polawax NF. Read more →

See also BTMS-50Olivem 1000Emulsifying Wax NF

Emulsifying Wax NF Emulsifier INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60

A non-ionic emulsifier that produces stable, light-bodied lotions. Use 4-8% of total formula. Heat to 70°C with the oil phase. Read more →

GLDA Chelator INCI: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

A biodegradable amino-acid-derived chelator. Performance close to EDTA. Use 0.1-0.3%. Read more →

Glycerin Humectant INCI: Glycerin

A water-loving ingredient that draws moisture into the skin. Use 2-5% in lotions, water phase. Above 7% can feel sticky. Read more →

Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier INCI: Glyceryl Stearate

A non-ionic co-emulsifier and skin-conditioning agent. Needs to be paired with a primary emulsifier; the self-emulsifying version is sold as "Glyceryl Stearate SE". Use 2-5% in oil phase. Read more →

Green Tea Extract Botanical Extract INCI: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Antioxidant-rich (catechins/EGCG) extract that protects skin lipids from oxidation. Use 1-3% in cool-down, water phase. Read more →

Heat & hold Process

Heating water and oil phases separately to 70°C and holding for 20 minutes to dissolve, melt, and reduce microbial load before emulsifying. Read more →

Hyaluronic Acid Active INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate

A humectant that holds up to 1000× its weight in water. Use 0.1-2% (low molecular weight penetrates, high molecular weight surface-hydrates). Read more →

Hydrolyzed Keratin Active INCI: Hydrolyzed Keratin

Protein broken into small peptides that form a light film on hair, smoothing the cuticle and reducing roughness. Great for dry, damaged, or color-treated hair. Use 1-3% in cool-down. Read more →

INCI Term

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Standardized ingredient naming required on cosmetic labels worldwide. Read more →

Jojoba Oil Oil INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

A liquid wax that mimics human sebum. Softens skin, supports the barrier, non-comedogenic. Use 3-10% in oil phase. Read more →

Lecithin Emulsifier INCI: Lecithin

A natural emulsifier (from soy or sunflower) that also conditions skin and improves penetration of actives. Use 0.5-3% in oil phase. Read more →

Licorice Extract Botanical Extract INCI: Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

A soothing, brightening botanical containing glabridin and glycyrrhizin. Calms redness and balances scalp/skin. Use 1-3% in cool-down. Read more →

Liquid Germall Plus Preservative INCI: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

A water-soluble preservative effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold. Use 0.1-0.5%. Add at cool-down. Read more →

Mango Butter Butter INCI: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter

A softer butter pressed from mango kernels, high in stearic and oleic acid. Adds structure and slows water evaporation. Use 3-10% in oil phase. Read more →

Montanov 68 Emulsifier INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside

A plant-derived non-ionic emulsifier that forms lamellar liquid-crystal structures, mimicking the skin barrier. Stable pH 4.5-7.5; rich cushioned feel. Use 3-6% in oil phase. Read more →

See also Olivem 1000Emulsifying Wax NF

Niacinamide Active INCI: Niacinamide

Vitamin B3. Reduces redness, improves barrier, regulates sebum. Use 2-5% in serums and creams. Water-soluble; add to cool-down phase. Read more →

Olivem 1000 Emulsifier INCI: Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate

An olive-derived non-ionic emulsifier. Approved for organic certification. Produces velvety creams. Use 3-8%, oil phase. Read more →

Optiphen Preservative INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol

A paraben/formaldehyde-free preservative system. Use 0.5-1.5%. Effective pH 4-8. Read more →

Panthenol Active INCI: Panthenol

Pro-vitamin B5. Water-soluble humectant + film-former that softens hair and skin, calms the scalp, and adds slight shine. Use 1-3% in cool-down. Read more →

Pentylene Glycol Humectant INCI: Pentylene Glycol

A humectant and solvent with mild antimicrobial activity. Silkier feel than propanediol; helps boost the preservative system. Use 3-5%. Read more →

pH Process

A measure of acidity. Skin sits at 4.5-5.5. Most leave-on products target 4.5-6. Always test with pH strips or a meter. Read more →

Phenoxyethanol Preservative INCI: Phenoxyethanol

A broad-spectrum preservative. Often combined (Optiphen, Phenonip). Use 0.5-1%. Add at cool-down (<40°C). Read more →

Polysorbate 80 Solubilizer INCI: Polysorbate 80

A water-soluble solubilizer for oils, fragrance, and essential oils. Use 1-3× the weight of the oil to dissolve. Use 0.5-3%. Read more →

Propanediol Humectant INCI: Propanediol

A plant-derived (corn-fermented) humectant and solvent. Less sticky than glycerin, helps dissolve extracts and supports preservation. Use 2-5% in water-based formulas. Read more →

See also Pentylene GlycolGlycerin

Retinol Active INCI: Retinol

Vitamin A derivative for cell turnover and anti-aging. Use 0.1-1% in oil-soluble cool-down. Light-sensitive — use opaque packaging. Read more →

Salicylic Acid Active INCI: Salicylic Acid

A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates inside pores. Use 0.5-2% in leave-on products at pH 3-4. Read more →

SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) Surfactant INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

A mild anionic surfactant from coconut oil. Rich creamy foam, gentle on sensitive skin and baby products. Use 10-40% in syndet bars and gentle cleansers. Read more →

SCS (Sodium Coco-Sulfate) Surfactant INCI: Sodium Coco-Sulfate

Primary anionic cleansing surfactant from coconut fatty alcohols. Strong cleanser with high foam; behaves like SLS, so balance it with a milder co-surfactant like coco betaine. Use 5-15% in shampoos and cleansing bars. Read more →

See also Coco BetaineSCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate)

Shea Butter Butter INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

A rich vegetable butter from shea nuts, high in vitamins A and E. Deeply moisturizing, supports skin elasticity. Use 3-15% in oil phase. Read more →

SLSA (Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate) Surfactant INCI: Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate

A mild anionic surfactant from coconut and palm oils. Big fluffy bubbles, non-irritating; popular in bubble baths and foaming cleansers. Use 10-30%. Not the same as SLS. Read more →

Sodium Phytate Chelator INCI: Sodium Phytate

A plant-derived chelating agent (from rice or corn) for natural-positioning formulas. Weaker than EDTA but enough for simple systems. Use 0.1-0.3%. Read more →

Stearic Acid Thickener INCI: Stearic Acid

A fatty acid co-emulsifier and thickener. Common in body butters and creams. Use 1-5%, oil phase. Read more →

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Active INCI: Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant brightener. Use 5-20% in low-pH (3-3.5) water-based serums. Oxidizes fast — formulate fresh and pack in airless bottles. Read more →

Xanthan Gum Thickener INCI: Xanthan Gum

A natural polysaccharide that thickens water-based formulas and stabilizes emulsions. Use 0.2-1% in water phase; "Clear" grades give cleaner gels. Read more →

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